markguycan's Logbook (106 ascents)

Classic! great exposure!

really enjoyed the start, great hands, poor feet; therefore: Campus!!!

difficult to onsite, "a series of unfortunate holds"

harder than it looks but easier than 11b. a good route.

Enjoyed this difficult sustained route, memorable crux(s).

great exposure, sweet cruxy moves interspersed w/ thrutching, groveling and worming. We cleaned up this route pretty well, knocked off some big blocks including one semi detached pillar- about 4ft wide by 1ft thick by 7ft tall! However, we left the poop stalagtites!

BURLY! in your face. first pitch is thin, awkward and poorly portected. second pitch is an awesome overhanging hands (10b), build your own belay (couple of big hex's useful to conserve the big cams for further up) before the long OW over several bulges. skipped the last pitch as it was getting dark and we were spent!

felt like 10d to me, probably feels much easier if you have small fingers.

the crux on pitch 2 is bolted, but be aware that you will be making some difficult moves above your bolts. I think the pitch is about 110ft long and only has 10 or 11 bolts. I believe it is reasonable, the falls are all safe. There are some really fun, thought provoking moves on that pitch. The first pitch starts out 5.10 off the deck w/ thin pro or traverse(5.6R) in above this crux about 15ft from a juniper, some poor rock in the corner- but much better than it was. third pitch is only about 5.9 up and right of the belay following insipient features w/ varied pro. the final pitch is hard 5.10 up the crescent past both gear and bolts- commiting moves, save a .75 or #1 camalot to protect the exit onto the slab, then clip a bolt and move up the shallow corner to the top anchors. rap 4x w/ a 70m or 2ropes.

a labor of love, spent probably 10days over 3 years developing this route. initially with great effort by ullr, first complete ascent with sonso45, additional bolts and anchors placed with assistance of hawthorne5630.