benkilgore's Logbook (115 ascents)

We set up a TR over the brat but according to the book there are 5.9 and 5.8 variations...one of which I assume it this, because it's 5.9-ish, especially on the steep slab at the top. Be prepared for an audience-it's right over the trail and right at the beginning.

Bring an extra rope or you'll be rapping off a sketchy little shrub. The bolts at the top, which you can't see from the ground, are 20-30 feet apart, so bring some pro. It gets less steep as you ascend, but the holds disappear, so you you'll be laying rubber if you don't zigzag (there should probably be a distinction between direct and zigzag here--traversing a little drops difficulty down to 5.7 at most). Very nice scenery at the top. We ended up rapping down in a downpour, which was epic.

Start is a bit exposed, as you step out over a possible very long bail. We backed up with the big tree. Also the top is a bit runout, maybe bring some pro (I didn't). This was my first outdoor lead, and I hung out right before the runout, but didn't feel like starting over.

First pitch only.

Nice and easy to set up a TR: just walk around to the left up a scramble and there are trees aplenty and horns to sling. Bring a static rope or a lot of runners or you'll be scraping your rope on a ledge about 6 feet down. About 50 feet. The climb is right over the road, right at the head of the trail, so you get a lot of attention. The wall has plenty of lines, ranging from 5.6-5.9ish. Standard gunx fare.