Achilleus30's Logbook (164 ascents)

WarmUp route for Too Many Puppies. Already did this route back in 2008, but needed a warmup today.

In the past, I had toproped this, since it was WAY above my grade at the time. I didn't have the guts to lead it, nor did I make it all the way up. Today, not only did I lead it, but I made it all the way to the top. I think this is the only hangdog ascent I've ever been proud of. Sustained 5.12a climbing all the way up.

Took a super fun (and scary) 21+ foot whipper from up high on this one. Very sustained. Made 3 attempts to lead it. 3 hands, 2 hangs, 4-5 hangs. After this last attempt was the worst yet, I realized I was out of gas.

One of the bolts was hard to find. The route veers left after a ledge to a bolt. Clip that, and then the next bolt (or the one after) is hard to find. Partly because one is not sure if the route continues left, or veers back right, or goes straight up, but mostly because the bolt is hidden from view until one is almost at eye level with it. Committing for the guy hanging the draws.

Bouldery start to easy climbing.

One-hung from the shuts twice on this one. Whipped from the shuts the first time, then just took at the last bolt the second time. Knew I didn't have the last 2-3 moves in me. Still a good workout/warmdown.

This climb, and Barenjager are both about 35ft. tall, or the same height as the Cleveland Rock Gym, where I train. The extremely short nature of the route is probably the reason I was able to send it.

First burn of the day, I hangdogged my way to the top. Would've been a redpoint, but for heinous rope drag. Second burn, I belayed my buddy up to the ledge, then from there, he belayed me up to the him, and then up the second half without any rope drag. Easy redpoint when the rope drag was out of the equation.
To add a little spice to the route, my friend kicked a rock the diameter of a large saucer, off the second ledge, straight at my head where I stood on the first ledge. I was looking straight up, and I saw it immediately, and dodged it at the last second. I guess that's twice this route has almost caused me brain trauma.

Whipped off of this upside down back in 2007. I misread the route, went straight up, when the line went left. Then when I knew I was going to come off, I left my feet up high, while I reached down to grab for the rope like a total noob. Letting go with my hands first on an overhanging route started my rotation. Plus my belayer must've jumped to give me a ton of slack, and a "soft catch." The extra slack, my stupid release, and my lack of a helmet almost killed me. Watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEXoWCObLms

I took 4 burns on 5.11b, failed to send, but came really close. Next I took 2 burns on 5.11a, failed to send.
Dropped it all the way down to 5.10a, failed to send.
Tried the 5.10b next to the 5.10a, failed to send.
Worst day of climbing on record, if based on ascents, but lots of sunshine, friends, and an awesome workout.

I laid siege to this thing on the second trip of the season, without really intending to. I ended up trying it four times. By the 3rd time, I had all the moves memorized... fourth time I had it wired. Didn't have enough juice to send it. I think I one-hung it on my best attempt. Then I was burnt for the rest of the day.