jhwnewengland's Logbook (119 ascents)

5/16/03 - FS Onsight. I couldn't figure out where the route went after the 5th pitch (when you get to the overlaps), so I ended up traversing over to the crux pitch on Standard Route and finishing up that. Finally saw where the 5.5 crux pitch on Standard goes, after doing the 5.7 variation twice. Still not sure where Beginner's is supposed to go, but I have an idea. I tried to pull the overlaps too far right, and ended up climbing on lichen covered, wet slabs until I decided to downclimb and traverse over. 7/20/03 - FS Repeat. This time I actually finished on the correct route, climbing a steep section right below the small pine tree, traversing left toward Standard, then pulling the overlaps at the easy break. The steep section below the pine was pretty difficult.

5/10/03 - Hangdog. Victor led the first pitch with a couple falls, and I followed it with a fall. We both tried to layback the tiny holds in the corner, but I needed to stem the section in order to do it after I fell. Not trivial going under the roof either, but I made it. I led the second pitch using the lower traverse, which was pretty tenuous. Ran out the top of Upper Refuse in order to protect Victor on the traverse.

5/10/03 - Onsight. I led this in one pitch. Well protected except for the 5.6 first pitch to the tree, which is a very runout slab above a good cam. Great climbing in the crack.

5/10/03 - Onsight (5.8+ variation). I led the variation to the first pitch, which was damn hard! The crack widens, so I had to lay it back and risk a near ground fall since pro was hard to come by. Luckily I got a jug before I got too high, and the crack narrows above for more good pro. Victor led the second pitch, taking the normal route. 5/16/03 - FS Repeat. I climbed the regular first pitch this time.

5/9/03 - Hangdog (couldn't do crux). My beta: get to crimps, then left hand to gaston. Feet up, with right pretty high. Push with right foot to go right hand up to jug. Big move.

6/1/02 - TR Hangdog (didn't make it up). 5/9/03 - Redpoint. Glad to get this first try. Cool looking climb, but short. Huge holds!

5/9/03 - Onsight. Very nice positioning for a 7. Steep and juggy, but the holds angle in funny ways making the body positioning fun. Downclimbed it on TR.

6/18/02 - Hangdog (1 fall). 5/9/03 - Redpoint. I remembered this one being tricky, but it's not that bad. Nice and short, with some funky moves about halfway up, and again near the top. I liked it.

5/7/03 - Onsight. What a cool route. Easy, and the crack eats gear. Highly recommended if you brought your rack!

6/1/02 - Hangdog (1 hang). 6/18/02 - Hangdog (1 fall). 5/5/03 - Redpoint. Good to finally get this one with no falls. Almost as good as Jolt, and actually harder in my opinion.