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lupox's Logbook (26 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 07. Smith Rock Group: Phoenix Buttress
JT's Route
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun sustained route
Great climb, stays pretty sustained at the grade through the last five bolts or so.
Added: 2010-06-26
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 07. Smith Rock Group: Northwest Wall
Where Ever I May Roam
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
4 Raps with a 60m Rope
Fun rambling route up to the top. I'd say that the third pitch is probably the hardest, but nothing more than an average 5.9.
At the top if you rap off the back side from the face where you just came up on the second set of anchors -- about 2 meters away from the top chains of the route -- I know you can rap to the bottom in 4 raps with a 60m rope. To get to the second rap anchors you'll have to walk about 10m on a big ledge; going down on those anchors will put you at the third belay anchors of the original route. Straight down from there is the last set of anchors (~4/5 of the 60m down, kind of hard to see below the bulge) which will put you back on the deck.
Oh and finally, if you bring up enough draws and a 70m rope I know that the second & third pitches can be linked.. but it makes communicating with your belayer that much harder on the section that Kimkrif pointed out already as being kind of through.
At the top if you rap off the back side from the face where you just came up on the second set of anchors -- about 2 meters away from the top chains of the route -- I know you can rap to the bottom in 4 raps with a 60m rope. To get to the second rap anchors you'll have to walk about 10m on a big ledge; going down on those anchors will put you at the third belay anchors of the original route. Straight down from there is the last set of anchors (~4/5 of the 60m down, kind of hard to see below the bulge) which will put you back on the deck.
Oh and finally, if you bring up enough draws and a 70m rope I know that the second & third pitches can be linked.. but it makes communicating with your belayer that much harder on the section that Kimkrif pointed out already as being kind of through.
Added: 2010-06-26
Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks
Welcome to New Jack City
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Good route.
Fun sustained route; the awesome undercling just above the first bolt makes it easy to find.
Added: 2010-01-13
Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks
Same Same but Different
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Cool crux
Agreed: last bolt is kind of hard to reach over the bulge, but all in all this was a pretty fun route.
Added: 2010-01-13
Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks
Step Across
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Cool crux
Nice head game on the crux coming over the bulge by the third (?) bolt, gotta trust that toe-crimp combination more than you want to!
Added: 2010-01-13
Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks
Espresso
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Gotta love the bolted on flakes!
Fun climb, but it seemed a bit easy for a 5.10c. Took a big chunk out of one of my fingers when my foot blew out unexpectedly!
Added: 2010-01-13
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Peyote Cracks - W Face
Right Peyote Crack
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Funky start
Funky start but a great climb. It's pretty short but the walk off isn't bad.
Added: 2010-01-13
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Zen Wall: Zen Wall
Pure Mind
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Fun slab, weird finish.
The slab section of the climb is a lot of fun but the top of this climb is a bit funky.
I'm not exactly sure as to why the anchor is past where the last bolt is: everything is nice & smooth up to a point, but once you pass that last bolt it gets broken, loose, and crappy.
Definitely need a helmet to belay this one, I got tagged in the shoulder by a chunk yesterday!
I'm not exactly sure as to why the anchor is past where the last bolt is: everything is nice & smooth up to a point, but once you pass that last bolt it gets broken, loose, and crappy.
Definitely need a helmet to belay this one, I got tagged in the shoulder by a chunk yesterday!
Added: 2009-12-11
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Zen Wall: Zen Wall
Avoiding Mordor
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Simple but fun
Nothing too special about this climb in my opinion; fun pockets and rails to work with but all in all a pretty straight forward climb.
The belay station leaves something to be desired, but if it's being top roped you can sit on the opposite ledge facing the climb and it is pretty comfortable!
The belay station leaves something to be desired, but if it's being top roped you can sit on the opposite ledge facing the climb and it is pretty comfortable!
Added: 2009-12-11
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Zen Wall: Zen Wall
Carry Water Chop Wood
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Decent top out at the end of the day
Hit this after climbing "In the Moment" as a top out to end the day & get our gear up, avoiding hiking down to one of the normal exits.
As noted in the other review, the bottom is sandy / chalky and holds seem pretty likely to break off so definitely wear a helmet while belaying. You might also want to warn people walking around the base of the climb on the trail because once the climber is on the arete, anything that comes off will land on the contouring trail, not the belay spot.
As noted in the other review, the bottom is sandy / chalky and holds seem pretty likely to break off so definitely wear a helmet while belaying. You might also want to warn people walking around the base of the climb on the trail because once the climber is on the arete, anything that comes off will land on the contouring trail, not the belay spot.
Added: 2009-12-11