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lupox's Logbook (26 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 07. Smith Rock Group: Phoenix Buttress

JT's Route Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2010-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun sustained route

Great climb, stays pretty sustained at the grade through the last five bolts or so.

Added: 2010-06-26

Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 07. Smith Rock Group: Northwest Wall

Where Ever I May Roam Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2010-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 4 Raps with a 60m Rope

Fun rambling route up to the top. I'd say that the third pitch is probably the hardest, but nothing more than an average 5.9.

At the top if you rap off the back side from the face where you just came up on the second set of anchors -- about 2 meters away from the top chains of the route -- I know you can rap to the bottom in 4 raps with a 60m rope. To get to the second rap anchors you'll have to walk about 10m on a big ledge; going down on those anchors will put you at the third belay anchors of the original route. Straight down from there is the last set of anchors (~4/5 of the 60m down, kind of hard to see below the bulge) which will put you back on the deck.

Oh and finally, if you bring up enough draws and a 70m rope I know that the second & third pitches can be linked.. but it makes communicating with your belayer that much harder on the section that Kimkrif pointed out already as being kind of through.

Added: 2010-06-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks

Welcome to New Jack City popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2010-01-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good route.

Fun sustained route; the awesome undercling just above the first bolt makes it easy to find.

Added: 2010-01-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks

Same Same but Different Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2010-01-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cool crux

Agreed: last bolt is kind of hard to reach over the bulge, but all in all this was a pretty fun route.

Added: 2010-01-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks

Step Across Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lupox on 2010-01-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cool crux

Nice head game on the crux coming over the bulge by the third (?) bolt, gotta trust that toe-crimp combination more than you want to!

Added: 2010-01-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: Raven Rocks

Espresso Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lupox on 2010-01-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gotta love the bolted on flakes!

Fun climb, but it seemed a bit easy for a 5.10c. Took a big chunk out of one of my fingers when my foot blew out unexpectedly!

Added: 2010-01-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Peyote Cracks - W Face

Right Peyote Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2010-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Funky start

Funky start but a great climb. It's pretty short but the walk off isn't bad.

Added: 2010-01-13

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Zen Wall: Zen Wall

Pure Mind Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2009-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun slab, weird finish.

The slab section of the climb is a lot of fun but the top of this climb is a bit funky.

I'm not exactly sure as to why the anchor is past where the last bolt is: everything is nice & smooth up to a point, but once you pass that last bolt it gets broken, loose, and crappy.

Definitely need a helmet to belay this one, I got tagged in the shoulder by a chunk yesterday!

Added: 2009-12-11

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Zen Wall: Zen Wall

Avoiding Mordor Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lupox on 2009-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Simple but fun

Nothing too special about this climb in my opinion; fun pockets and rails to work with but all in all a pretty straight forward climb.

The belay station leaves something to be desired, but if it's being top roped you can sit on the opposite ledge facing the climb and it is pretty comfortable!

Added: 2009-12-11

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Zen Wall: Zen Wall

Carry Water Chop Wood Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: lupox on 2009-12-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Decent top out at the end of the day

Hit this after climbing "In the Moment" as a top out to end the day & get our gear up, avoiding hiking down to one of the normal exits.

As noted in the other review, the bottom is sandy / chalky and holds seem pretty likely to break off so definitely wear a helmet while belaying. You might also want to warn people walking around the base of the climb on the trail because once the climber is on the arete, anything that comes off will land on the contouring trail, not the belay spot.

Added: 2009-12-11

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