mamajama's Logbook (13 ascents)

Probably the best and most varied .11a crack anywhere.

My legs were shaking like a leaf on a tree. Not exactly what I planned on. Ground fall potential.

I rember looking down at my right big toe smeared sideways into a shallow, flaring, vertical finger crack, then down at my belayer. I panicked at the sight of my last piece of pro well below my feet. As my eyes rushed upwards to the next hold, the realization that my toe had slipped halfway off the marginal smear made my tips begin to sweat and slip from the two greasy sidepulls above my head. My heart began to race as my mind rushed to process the information: "crimping skills or hospital bills", "smear it well or burn in hell|". A liberating feeling tempted me and I screamed as I went for it. The next hold stuck and I adjusted my feet in the insecure jam/smears. the next flaring jam felt like my own personal meat grinder. Now, more flamed and out there than ever, I just ignored the pain and squeezed the sweat out of that jam until I could set my foot and hit the JUG. What a sweet bucket it is. This is a slabby crack to measure all others by. What a lead, incredible!