stevecurtis's Logbook (379 ascents)

Rope solo. No good between first and second bolt for the rope soloist. I came down. A regular belay should be ok, but quite a bit harder than 11 A in this place.

The crux on the second pitch is a really painful boulder problem. Third pitch nice, fourth too.

Felt hard for 11 c, then again, I've got a few cracked ribs.

The thin flake is better than it looks from the ground. Take a few yellow aliens.

A nice corner.

There is a good slot for a nut for the belay. Insecure climbing for the first bolt--a small cam might help. Afterward, a hard move between first and second bolt. A yellow alien is handy above this. Third bolt does not inspire confidence. Mid to hard 11 between third and fourth bolt. More hard 10 to first anchor. Crux move over roof requires an odd body tension move--probably significantly harder than grade. Above are two bolts and a runout. Right is thin and reachy 5.11, left is very thin 10 + according to my partner.

The crux is at the roof. above, there is a decent green alien. I was debating on how useless these bolts were.

A green alien protects the first clip. The crux follows--not terribly hard, but hard to figure. Sustained to ledge and then another tough section. Easy but steep runout to top.

Super climbing, but runout. First two pitches pretty tame. Third pitch traverse runout 5.10 with a nob ty off. Chad "If you want to do this one, better lead the last pitch" Last pitch crux move with feet over bolt, then 10 more feet of 5.11 to bolt. Fall ?? Maybe OK.

First pitch is committing right off the deck. (It is possible to traverse in to the second pitch) My partner used a #4 to protect a tenuous clip before the roof bolder problem. After that is a long run to anchors. Bring small cams to make this PG instead of 5.9 X. The second pitch is committing and relatively safe. A red camalot is needed. Third pitch is about 180 ft and requires some gear. Fourth pitch is an easy solo which can be protected by a finger size piece. Fifth pitch starts the show. Begin in an easy corner with a green alien. A few awkward moves get you to a platfrom (yellow alien) with a look at the traverse bolts right. Again, committing moves required climbing right. Pull a small roof, and do much easier moves back left to a belay. Above, the route traverses left through a roof and to a short crux (5.12) Above this, the route stays really overhanging and hard with most moves 5.11 to occasional good holds and one blank section. The last pitch heads straight up to and easy but committing traverse back right. Above are some hard moves to a blank section. This might go free out right at a moderate grade. The last pitch is 5.7 by the guide. When we did it, it was wet and felt much more like 5.10 R. Link this to the last easy pitch.