tallmark515's Logbook (81 ascents)

Luckily I'm tall so the first bolt was easy for me to clip which gave me confidence to make the somewhat scary bouldery move up and over the the bulge (the variation seemed 5.9). The rest of the route was easy. At the top I decided to follow the crack to the right to take me to the top.

The chimney climbing was easy, but the exit was tough. Once I figured out which way to face, I made a couple of big moves (high-steps) and was able to push my way out of the chimney into more secure territory. The rest of the route felt like 5.6.

Took a little bit to figure out the sequence at the cruxy beginning section but was able to move past it via scary lieback. I did fine until I got to the couple foot section where the crack gets really wide (with lots of bird poop on the inside). I couldn't gather up the confidence to make the moves and had to hang for a bit. Once I committed to the move and actually did it, I flawlessly made my way to the top. Stout 5.9

attempted to lead this route twice, both times I wore myself out attempting to clip poorly positioned bolts. Crux is definitely traversing from the big chalk covered pocket to the left. There are a few narrow edges at head level that provide some marginal hand holds. If you're tall you can smear the wall and hook your toe into the edge to the left, which makes for a great rest stop once you get the rest of your body over.

Crux for short people (prob under 6'2" or so) is the start, getting to the first bolt can be tricky, tall people can make it to a bomber ledge in one dyno like move from the ground.

Man, what a fun route! Who would have ever thought that sport climbing could be this much fun.

I did this route at 7am, before breakfast, before coffee in a mad rush to do 15 routes in a day. My fingers were freezing and my shoes were near frozen stiff and this route was a crappy warm-up.

I think this was the route that I did yesterday. Felt like low .10 moves along the traverse (super fun, big jugs and foot smears) then .9 moves going up to the top (also super fun, more big jugs). Bolted like crazy... er, like a "non-jtree" sport climb. I think I'm beginning to enjoy these jtree sport routes. Gotta lead it next time!

Stout for .8, even by jtree standards. Very committing move to the first bolt, a fall here would likely be a very painful swing into a nearby wall (ouch!). Gave the lead to my partner, gets easier towards the top.

The title says it all, sport climbing in Jtree. Lots of edging and face climbing. This was a very fun, yet unexpected route. Had a tricky time just after the 3rd (I think) bolt, had to do a serious mantle move, slipped and hung for a second... oops. I'll be going for the redpoint next time I guess. Very throughly bolted.

Bring a #12 nut, #13 nut and a #1 Cam for the gear anchor up top. A .75 can also be used as a directional in the crack above the last bolt to help the follower.

who ruined this potentially fun route with too many bolts? Chop every other bolt to spice things up a bit. 5.7+ BTW

My partner led the crack section but bailed at the .10b bulge crux, I finished the crux on lead without falling. Next time I'll be going for the redpoint.