Routes : Reviews
tolman_paul's Logbook (12 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: California: San Francisco Bay: Mt. Diablo: Boy Scout Rocks - Lower Tier
Amazing Face
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Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
First ascent
Ok, I don't recall if it was 91 or not, but I did bolt the route and put up the first ascent. Unless a bunch of holds have broken, I can't believe folks are rating it 5.10. It is a very sustained route, but I don't recall any moves to consider it a 5.10. The bolt route is definately a 10.
I didn't do it for any claim to fame, one of the guys at REI in Sunnyvale suggested bolting it, and since I was headed up to Donner summit for a week of climbing, figured it would be worth stopping by on the way and putting in bolts. I'd done the route on top rope several times so the lead was somewhat anti climactic.
Yes, I put in alot of bolts, mostly due to the very soft nature of the rock, and the spacing just seemed to work out. You can always skip clips if you need more excitement.
I didn't do it for any claim to fame, one of the guys at REI in Sunnyvale suggested bolting it, and since I was headed up to Donner summit for a week of climbing, figured it would be worth stopping by on the way and putting in bolts. I'd done the route on top rope several times so the lead was somewhat anti climactic.
Yes, I put in alot of bolts, mostly due to the very soft nature of the rock, and the spacing just seemed to work out. You can always skip clips if you need more excitement.
Added: 2008-02-08
Routes: North America: United States: Alaska: Anchorage Area Rock & Ice: Seward Highway: Bermuda Triangle
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Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Replaced first two bolts
I placed new 1/2" ss metolius bolts to replace to first two 1/4" rawl split shanks. The existing holes weren't used as the rock had cracks running thorugh the holes, though honestly the entire face is so fractured it's tought to find anything good to drill.
The first time I've tried climbing rock in freezing temps, it was 7F at the truck, but with face getting some sun it warmed right up. I figure in a few weeks if have a sunny day it'll be ripe of climbing.
I'll be replacing the higher bolts and anchors in the future.
The first time I've tried climbing rock in freezing temps, it was 7F at the truck, but with face getting some sun it warmed right up. I figure in a few weeks if have a sunny day it'll be ripe of climbing.
I'll be replacing the higher bolts and anchors in the future.
Added: 2008-02-08