lupox's Logbook (26 ascents)

Onsighted this yesterday and got worked on the reachy crux (as described in the guide book). Thankfully there is a nice 3" ledge to stand on to figure out how to work the crux & to rest before doing it. Watched my ~6' friend make it look like a 5.9+ right after I struggled my way up...

Did a poor lead of the first route of this with a friend at the end of a long day. Was feeling tired and kind of sloppy but the crap he was giving me about not getting up & over the roof inspired me to finally pull through it -- Doww is right: the rest is easy, but that roof is surprisingly good crux in the middle of it all.

Best part? My friend seconds it, gets to the roof and falls repeatedly finally admitting that the hold he kept yelling up to me to use had broken off since he had last climbed it!

One of my favorites in the gap. Two distinct ways to go up it (that I know of): first and most popular is staying to the left on the main face of the route then coming back to the right before going over the roof.

The second way (and now my favorite way) is to stay right / middle the whole time; it doesn't look like it will be any nicer than the left route but in my opinion it's not only easier but it has a really fun move in it to boot!

One of my favorites in the Gap. The start can be awkward but fun; some people prefer to begin really low on the left side of the arete, other (myself included) like to start on the dihedral on top of the neighboring boulder. I would definitely recommend having someone tall stand on the boulder to clip the first bolt for simplicity & safety before starting the route.

Love the sequence when you first get into the overhanging part!

Did this after working out hard on the mid tens after a couple lazy months. It's a great climb, but I made it look pretty ugly!