leinosaur's Logbook (313 ascents)

way fun, though by the time we got to the slabs they were pretty heated up by the July sun - the belay ledge at top had a nice shady retreat over to the side, though - stayed in there for a while, after. Some nice ferns in there, and some stray wheaty-looking grass was growing too.

fun lead - crack is deep and textured, easy to do with enough big stoppers - I used one big hex, too, and set it too hard

Wow can't believe it's been 5 years since I first was on this, just now got around to the redpoint. Really fun lead, I was missing out!
original note 6/30/2004:way fun, I was 2nding spivey again - I really dig the shadiness of this area & the multiple-cracks-to-choose-from gig is cool too. Look forward to leading it soon.

(Edited 5/8/4 after leading it at last:) I put in a stopper before the first bolt, just 'cause I could; was looking for more stopper placements but the bolts popped up every time I thought of it - this was my second lead and much "sportier" than the slab lead at Quartz a month back . . . more vertical makes the sharp end seem a bit sharper.
My First time: 12/29/03; I climbed this again today (3/18/04) and learned its name for certain - it was Pizza Time for me, though, rather than Taco, as I had brought leftover veggie combo slices from Gret's in Burns Flat (good 'zza y'all)
I was cleaning draws today so I guess that's toprope - my second ascent (first one in December on straight toprope)

Not a real cruxy route, of course, at 5.6 (it was my first roped rock route ever, in December & I flashed it then) but the start and the topout might require a moment's circumspection before proceeding.

Perhaps only because it's a face climb, Taco Time requires finer technique, in my opinion, than The Dihedral in the Narrows which is also rated at 5.6 but presents even more obvious bomber holds all the way along. Apples to oranges comparison, though.

It was good to get Spivey on lead; I knew he had done some sport but we have been top-roping stuff in the Narrows. We're pushing each other though and finally putting Yogi's trad rack to use - I'll have to meet that character one of these days.

my first lead -
not exactly a redpoint but not hangdog either - took about six tries at getting up to the first bolt and slid out of the first five - fell once more after clipping the first one but finished square after that

had TR'd it once the day before, following it with Accidents Will Happen & the easier trough-slab left of AWH past the tree

seemed easier than Who's Got the Juice, to me, but maybe I was just fresher. Way fun Quartzy Climb - love them slabs y'all!

Cleaning Alan's retro-style draws - Chouinard 'biners w/ neon yellow & pink runners

fun trough - good slab stemming practice
(edit) - came back and soloed this sometime later, which ironically was my first look at the new bolts. more exposed than one would think, really, with the drop-potential to the right, into that gully with the tree . . .

Did not get this far left last December, and it's probably just as well - it pushed my limits today, at the end of the day, certainly at the runout crux - a body gets spoiled from so many options, in the middle -

This one teased me with what was for me a bit of a cruxy start - got my forearms pumped on a few way-bouldery start attempts before finally getting some solid feet & up to the first cam - in spite of having already been near it to unclip spivey's lead rope from it, on his request and with him clipped in static-style, to obviate the extra slack and drag that first one would have caused. Unnecessary ultimately as he flashed the onsight but I did come off it near the junction with Interceptor - so I was technically offroute for an 8-foot stretch . . . keen to go back and prove it though, then lead the mofo -

OK, I didn't actually bother climbing the OSBH, as the sun was setting fast over the western hills and through the smoke of the fires over by Tetilla Peak (yeah, that's nipple peak alright, perky butte just off the Meers road to the west, in the special-use area). However, since Spivey used the name I told him at Meers I'm not leaving the strap unsnapped ;) You know it turns out, after all these visits, that you don't get soup with the one-trip salad bar after all - If you do opt for the cheap-but-filling option of the all-you-can eat, you'll definitely be pleased with the steak or the cheese soup, and I recommend mixing 'em - it's the best. That longhorn is the best red meat of 'em all - beats feedlot moomoo all to heck & is more tender & tastier than most buffalo cuts I've had.

I didn't know if Spivey might settle on Bustenhalter as a name for this one, as that's the less silly German version of Over Shoulder Boulder Holder . . . or is it Brustenhalter? Ich weiB nicht.

Hella fun - my second crack climb and significantly more difficult than Crazy Alice, even though LF was dry & she was wet on the left - I made it in one shot but only with some well-placed encouragement from spivey, re. proper foot-jams (stick it in sideways & twist - then it's bomber!) etc. Highly recommended. Crux for me was shortly into the left-diagonal crack right across the face. Can't wait for another Leap!