stevecurtis's Logbook (379 ascents)

getting out of the slot is hard. Much harder than 9+ for me. the gear is small, but there. The rest of the climb 5.8 or easier.

I had a ledge collapse at the top. Closest I've come to death in 30 years climbing

adequate pro

Yeah, the crux is tough to protect well- green aliens, small nuts, smallest tricam. But the fall is safe

The hold next to the old ring bolt, after the first runout, is loose--take care!! Excellent climbing and good but sometimes tricky pro

Bring a 3 rp and trust it.

Route finding tough. After 3rd pitch go up broken face directly above highest point on ledge. Veer left to next ledge. Fifth pitch is a trough to a crack and wet corner. Sixth pitch more crack and face to the clean rock. From here occult traverse up and right--fixed nut marks spot. Seventh pitch is the flare. Starts really friendly, and ends a monster 4-5 camalot size. (5 not necessary) Belay left on small ledge. Eighth pitch--first fifty feet 3.5-4 camalot size--take a few. Narrows to 2 then 1, 3/4 1/2. Make hard layback to more flare and to bolt over roof. Bolt marginal--#3 camalot below plus green alien over roof. Pull it to a ledge. 190 ft. We bailed here to movable stone.

Onsight rope solo. Feels like 5.10 to me. Wet at base

The first piece of pro is questionable, after that, hang in their