kvochatzer's Logbook (826 ascents)

The only challenge to this beginner climb is getting off the deck without wedging your butt against the tree. Two parts give the beginner trouble: the start without using the tree, and around the last bolt because it smooths out and beginners beg for non-existent jugs. Still, 5.8 seems like an overrating. Old guidebooks have said 5.5, 5.6 and 5.8. Guess it depends on if you use or don't use the tree :^)
BTW, this IS the same as "Hollywood" which is recorded as a 5.6. Historically, this was a top rope only route until 2006 when it was bolted.

Not being the most practiced at roof moves and crack hand jambs, it took me a while to make the move to the chains out on the roof edge. A nice new challenge at Seismic.
I wrote the route description and guessed at the rating - feel free to revise.
I've since heard anywhere from a 5.9 to a 5.11. I feel pretty good about the rating I gave considering the hand jamb out on the roof.

UPDATE: The fish eye was added sometime in the summer after I onsighted this climb - making the roof move much safer and very much less psychological.

stick clip advisable. there are 2 variations to the first bolt, left and right of the obvious center hand hold/hole. left side feels like a 10b while the right side is more like an 11a with a very thin crimper and micro foot edges. The right side sheds all 5.10+ climbers that I've talked into trying it. Give the right side a try and it'll soon be your favorite problem move to the ledge at the first bolt.

stick clipping is advisable. don't over think it, just move on the crimps and toes. 5.10c is a little overrated IMO.

stick clip is advisable. step up, pull in with right crimper and hit the left hand in a small horizontal pocket by the first bolt, there's nothing on the left so move feet right and reach overhead with left to the nice block, easy to figure out after that.

2 awkward bulges with 2 bolt to chains