Routes : Reviews
benkilgore's Logbook (115 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (1)
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Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: The Zip
Crystal Ball Left
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
The bottom is .10a
I would definitely grade the crack at the bottom 9+ at least. Looks like the right .10b exit is covered with moss or lichen. If you can't lead it, you should go right for the gully approach to three anchors at the top. Problem for us was that some jackass had piled the fixed webbing up out of reach so getting to the top was an ordeal that involved a very messy rap off a tree. This is the second time in two days we've seen evidence of local unfriendliness to topropers. No idea what that is all about. Not everyone owns a $1000 trad rack.
Added: 2008-10-28
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: The Zip
The Zip
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Wicked.
Wicked once we got on it anyway. If you can't lead it, you should go right for the gully approach to three anchors at the top. Problem for us was that some jackass had piled the fixed webbing up out of reach so getting to the top was an ordeal that involved a very messy rap off a tree.
Added: 2008-10-28
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: Fatty Bolger
Stepladder
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
slabalicious
Pretty unremarkable. Well protected, just another low angle friction slab, no thought to it.
Added: 2008-10-27
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: Fatty Bolger
Moominland
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Not a .9
Despite the blankness near the top. Well protected. Slab.
Added: 2008-10-27
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: Fatty Bolger
Hamish's
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
blanks out a bit at the top
Nice for learning, a friend did her first lead here--although the second bolt is poorly placed and falling just under it or while clipping would cause you to deck unless your belayer jumped off the belay ledge right quick. Will not accept pro.
Added: 2008-10-27
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: Fatty Bolger
David's
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Why only two bolts?
Feels a bit runout and there is no place for pro.
Added: 2008-10-27
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: Penny Lane
Penny Lane
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Rude locals?
Set up a toprope here despite people (who came after us and wanted to lead it) telling me it was "impossible" and that my rope wouldn't be long enough. True enough, you do need an extra rope to do so, but it's no big deal. The thing is so polished that I can see why there are no bolts at the top but that just makes it take longer to set up the toprope. Superb climb, btw--the crux for me wasn't the bottom but about 3/4 of the way up. The bottom wasn't hard at all, maybe because I am 6'1". Must do.
Added: 2008-10-27
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Malamute - Upper: Starr Wall
Paul's Crack
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Superb finger/hand jams down low.
Difficulty vanishes on the upper 20m. Maybe 3 or 4 sustained .10 moves down low. A very nice crack indeed. Will take a ton of pro.
Added: 2008-10-25
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: Malamute - Upper: Starr Wall
High Mountain Woody
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
So much fun
You feel very exposed and it's very long of course. Difficulty tapers off considerably on the top 2/3. There might be a .9 move in there but it is so long that rating the entire thing .9 when most is .7 doesn't seem right. Dont miss this one if you can help it. I TR'd it but the crack will take a ton of gear and quite steadily. Lots of rests, too. Stellar on all counts.
Added: 2008-10-25
Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Squamish: The Little Smoke Bluffs: Neat and Cool
Corner Crack
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
I forget
Uh, I can't really recall this one. Forgettable?
Added: 2008-10-23
