rurprider's Logbook (83 ascents)

No Fly Zone is an excellent, gently overhanging route. The protection is good, with large positive holds in horizontal features. Lots of excellent footholds.
The moves feel committing, and pumpy, but the 4 bolts are preciously where you need them and solid. No Fly Zone may be 5.10a once you rehearse the moves and/or have the beta, but seems more like 5.10c as an onsight. This was my second time up the route in ~ 10 years. A long way from home.

Pitch 1 has cleaned up nicely over the past 2 years. Our party removed one very large loose flake and numerous baseball-sized cobbles from the 1st belay stance and swept the smaller rocks off the sloping ledge. Nice easy pitch with lots of fun positive holes to pull on.
Pitch 2 was fun with wonderful positive 4 finger pad edges up a steep golden face to the anchors. The pull over the bulge right off the belay is brief, but exciting. One of the better pitches at Easy Street. Very solid and clean compared to the other pitches there.

Puffing Hunchback is a very interesting line. Overhanging face moves and undercling with an occasional jam in the finger crack. The bolts make sense as the crack is chossy and no one carries nuts or cams to Echo Cliffs. The climb was fun and pumpy, but the 2nd bolt hanger spins and needs to be tightened. Stick clipping the 2nd bolt seems warranted as a missed clip would result in a serious fall. Seems to have cleaned up well and a nice route on a hot day. No lines on this climb.