Achilleus30's Logbook (164 ascents)

Getting to 2nd bolt ain't easy, but it's easier than it first looks from the ground. Plus once I got to the second bolt, the rest was a nice stroll in the park. The whole thing looked intimidating from the ground though.

Felt like 5.11b. First time up was hard. Once draws were hung (by me), redpointing was easier.

Balancy enough to shut down my wife and Bilal. I think my wife was about ready to give up on climbing after she couldn't get up this. Sucks, because I really put her on it for her to succeed.

After you pull around a bulge, there's a shit sloper straight ahead, then a slightly better one not at 12, but 11 o'clock. Then follow up with a right hand two finger pocket, and a Left Hand three finger pocket. Rest is easy.

One move wonder boulder problem to clip the second bolt, if I remember correctly.

WarmUp

One has to head way out left (off route almost) to find some shitty crimps to move up on.

Super good jugs almost all the way. There is one five finger almost hex-shaped hold near the top that one gets the pads of all five fingers on the R. hand wrapped around, and then pinches hard. Other than that, it's hug, comfy jugs on permadraws. Last bit to the chains was spicy because a L.h on a vertical crack gets you up to a R.h 2-3 finger pocket. L.f up to a good foot, then a R.f smear leaves you wanting way better holds to clip from. I hit the first slopper looking hold beneath the shuts with my L.h and felt it sucked, then slapped my R.h up to the other sloper-looking hold next to it, and found an awesome, thank-you-Jesus clipping jug.

Clip the third bolt, then R.h sidepull with thumbcatch on top. L.h sidepull (lower of two right next to each other), L.f up almost into big pocket, R.f up to top nub of vertical crease in wall, L.h up to horrible nub, R.hand up to horrible nub nearest the L.h horrible nub..... (bigger looking R.h out right at small vertical crack is a red-herring), .....R.f up into big pocket, L.f up to edge lining the top of the previous L.f big pocket, L.h up to left side of thin tiny horizontal crease, L.f up to tiny barely visible, but most prominent nub, R.f up and smear with toe turned inward on optimal spot, R.h up to shitty two finger crimp, L.h up to better two finger crimp, walk feet to stable spot, move up to horizontal excellent clipping jug. Took me two burns, and about 6-7 falls at this lower crux on each burn, some bloody fingers, pouring sweat, and cursing the air blue to figure out this beta. On the third attempt I executed the above sequence exactly, and sent the route.

Easy Slab