Routes : Reviews
Alpinisto's Logbook (3 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Beginner's Delight
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
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Found the traverse less daunting than expected...
...however, we might have been a slight bit off-route, as we climbed up the right-facing inside corner on P2 about as far as we could and then traversed straight left. (Didn't see any old pins as others have described.) The guided group on the route later traversed MUCH lower than we did - about level with the P1 belay ledge.
Regardless, it was only the first move of the traverse that was a bit awkward and then pretty straightforward after that. GREAT belay ledge for P3, but the dihedral/roof combo at the beginning of P3 proved interesting. Trying to clean a red Friend in the horizontal crack just before going out onto the face, my fearsome leader Paul had me on a tight belay (which normally I prefer), but in this case, I was bent over at the waist with my head was pinned up against the roof! "Slack!"
Getting out on the face on P3 gives some nice exposure. We should've rapped it, however, since the hike across the cliff, down the Uberfall escape route and back out the carriage road to the base of the route (all done in my climbing shoes) left me with a nice blister on my left heel. Note to self: clip my Teva's to my harness next time for the walk off. D'OH!!
[EDIT]: My partner told me we did a 5.5 variation.
Regardless, it was only the first move of the traverse that was a bit awkward and then pretty straightforward after that. GREAT belay ledge for P3, but the dihedral/roof combo at the beginning of P3 proved interesting. Trying to clean a red Friend in the horizontal crack just before going out onto the face, my fearsome leader Paul had me on a tight belay (which normally I prefer), but in this case, I was bent over at the waist with my head was pinned up against the roof! "Slack!"
Getting out on the face on P3 gives some nice exposure. We should've rapped it, however, since the hike across the cliff, down the Uberfall escape route and back out the carriage road to the base of the route (all done in my climbing shoes) left me with a nice blister on my left heel. Note to self: clip my Teva's to my harness next time for the walk off. D'OH!!
[EDIT]: My partner told me we did a 5.5 variation.
Added: 2008-07-12
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Easy Overhang
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Beautiful day; beautiful climb
My second multipitch climb, and my first multipitch rap! I was fighting a bit of Elvis leg on P2, due to a poor belay stance on the GT ledge. (Note to self: make sure to set up a comfortable belay stance!) Also whilst on the GT ledge I got to see two guys doing a full-length rap down Baby and manage to pull down a grapefruit-sized rock to the base of the climb. If that wasn't enough, on the hike down to the carriage road my partner was nearly hit by a bright pink locker that came whizzing down from an adjacent route! (Second note to self: don't take helmet off until hitting the carriage road.)
Added: 2008-06-21
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Casa Emilio
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
My first multipitch
Also my first time seconding. P1 was still a bit wet 'n slick from overnight rain, but the sun came out and it got stoopid hot by P3. Great fun, and a great route for a first multipitch. Especially enjoyed watching the turkey vultures circling round the cliff and seeing Skytop on the ridgeline in the distance whilst belaying on P2.
[edit: 6-18-08] Just heard from one of my climbing partners who did the route on 6-14-08 that we might have done a 5.5 variation heading up straight from the right-hand side of the belay ledge, rather than angling left for the standard 5.3 route...
[edit: 6-18-08] Just heard from one of my climbing partners who did the route on 6-14-08 that we might have done a 5.5 variation heading up straight from the right-hand side of the belay ledge, rather than angling left for the standard 5.3 route...
Added: 2008-06-11