CCSRacer's Logbook (16 ascents)

Use long draws to cut down on drag

The no foot start is really fun, upclimb from there isn't too hard, there is a great clipping stance for the last bolt far left, then traverse the crimpers and up through the crux.

Finally got the clean red point on this route. Until the last bolt, the moves are not so difficult, just pumpy and sustained. Move quickly through the easy section, so you have gas for the crux-y finish

Contrived but fun

First time out to erock and had a go on this route. Debated rapping down to clip the first bolt, but decided to just climb up to it. Those first moves aren't all that hard, but if you screw it up, you are in big trouble. The crimpy crux was pretty fun, the holds get bigger once you make it to the arete. As I approached the last bolt, I grabbed a great left sidepull and leaned right to clip. Suddenly I thought I felt my hold move, but wasn't sure. To be safe, I shifted back to the left and just then, the entire hold broke loose in my hand, maybe a 6 lb rock. My belayer was directly below and looking into the sun, she wouldn't have had a chance to dodge. I slammed my chest into the wall and managed to trap the rock, then toss it to safety. After that, another smaller hold broke loose, and I managed to finish the route without bloodshed! I didn't realize that would be a big concern with granite.

This was my 1st 5.12 send; very fun climb

...eases up after the 2nd bolt

Make sure your belayer is watching you at the bottom. After the first section it's cake.

This route has a bit of everything. The start tests your balance and the feet are polished, after the 2nd bolt I think you can go left to small crimps, reach right to the honeycomb or use a knee bar and go straight up. Big rest if you need it, then a big throw up into the cave and a jug haul to the top.

Projecting this one. Best I've managed it to work it bolt to bolt on lead...