Ebb's Logbook (31 ascents)

4 experienced climbers each took this on, twice. Consensus was more like 5.9 - 5.10a, at least with current conditions (dirt/moss/lichen). Kind of awkward; wouldn't take "5.8" climbers down this one, unless they're prepared to rap all the way to the forest floor.

A couple of very awkward spots on the lower portion, which are harder than they would appear at first glance given the size of the ledges that you have to work with in these areas. However, the holds aren't right where you'd want them and/or bulges get in your way. The "jugs" come out once you reach the top portion, and fortunately aren't too dirty these days. This portion is a bit steep, so the jugs are nice to have to hang on to!

This is a very popular route (we climbed on a Friday and were the 2nd of 5 parties to climb all or part of this route). The "company" was helpful though for our first time up this route, as it provided for some valuable "live beta" from the "veterans."

I've read in some guide books that the published ratings for Beacon Rock are a bit "stiff" and I would agree here. At least for a personal first ascent, consider adding a notch to any of the published ratings (i.e. the first pitch felt more like 5.7, the third pitch felt more like 5.8 or even higher if you choose the wrong path to get over the bulge at the start, the fourth through sixth pitches all have some moves that could argueably go for 5.6 - 5.7, etc.)

Expect to commit a FULL day to this climb due to length, crowds and for a first time ascent, route finding.

* Tip - It may be useful to bring radios, or at a minimum discuss rope commands, as there are a few pitches where you will lose sight of your partner and the noise from wind, trains, etc., can make it very difficult to communicate.

With no stick clip or crash pad available, my climbing partner elected to climb the face up and to the right of the alcove and then traverse back to the left to clip to the bolt above the crux. He estimated this "alternate start" at about 5.8. It protected well with trad gear. This approach then allows one to come back down from that point and attempt the crux of the true start with the first bolt clipped, or to continue on to the top to set a top rope.

Safety rating may be more like PG13 without the first bolt clipped or some other pro placed prior to attempting the crux.

5.3 in Watts' first edition, but now upgraded to 5.5 in the 2010 2nd edition. I'd agree that while not terribly difficult, the start is awkward enough (if you actually start in the crack and not up and left from it) to warrant a rating higher than 5.3. The X or R rating (depending on the source) is due to the limited/poor placement for trad protection (regardless of the difficulty of the actual climb).

This can be a great climb for little kids to TR. My son (5) and daughter (3) both made it half way up or so by using a "cheat" start slightly up and to the left of the crack (it probably would go at 5.3 or 5.4 if you used that start as opposed to the crack...)

All kinds of kids and newbies were trying to get up this one. The start feels a little thin to me for a 5.6, and sure enough the 2010 edition of Watts' book now has it rated 5.7.

Lower moves feel tougher than 5.8 to me. I've seen referrences on-line to Watts having rated this 5.9 in a past post on another site, and his new (2010 edition) book also has it at 5.9 (while it was originally rated 5.8 in the first edition). "Weekend Rock Oregon" also has it at 5.9.

A bit of an "adventure" for Ozone with the 2 pitches/2 rappels, etc. Fun. Crux seemed a bit tougher than 5.8 (5.8+/5.9- ?)

Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground.

Too bad it's so short... Very fun. TR'd (scramble up back - low 5th class; bolts situated over this route)