Heretic's Logbook (6 ascents)

...yeah when I first tried it, the slopey top slashed up my right calf. The time I sent it I was wearing jeans and socks. LOL~

Anyway you can definitely campus the entire crack. I had to because I wasn't tall enough to get my feet into the gigantic hueco/incut underneath the crack. But then again I could have heel-hooked the crack too...then just mantle the slopey top, which is really big and rounded off so you may end up doing a beached whale aka a belly roll...LOL

Oh...clean out the crack first! I didn't and ended up getting a small grain imbedded into my middle finger! I had to squeeze it like a zit in order to get it out...PAIN!

Like I sayz, lieback the crack to a grainy, slopey topout. Not too bad. Good for warmup...

For shorter folk, double up on that last hold at the top, right hand higher. Post high with both feet and make a dynamic movement for a decent sloper, right-side. Then get a good left foot in the crack, move the left hand up to a nice sloper, left foot up on the last hold then mantle off the right foot (helps if you can do splits).

Flashed (or Red Pointed?). One try. But then again this was my second ascent. My first ascent took maybe 20 tries? LOL~ YES it is harder for shorter folks like me but once you get the start, keep your feet high throughout, right into a sweet and easy mantle topout~

The guide book says V3...I'm going with V3!

Pretty sweet route. Jugs near the top, slopey crux moves midway. Crossover then throw far, keeping the right heel deep

Could have sworn Nick said "The Cockfest"~ LOL Quality of rock isn't too great; after the mantle I stood on a crack chip that broke off from under me. Other than that it was pretty sweet. The mantle into a reach is pretty sweet. I wouldn't say V0 definitely, I would say V0+ to V1-