JasonGraves's Logbook (2 ascents)

Because I'm 38, have four kids and only climb moderate trad routes, I really appreciate when people give detailed ascent notes. It helps me determine if a climb is within my abilities. After all the hype about injuries/deaths on this 5.7 I thought it might be helpful to give details from an intermediate (don't lead above 5.9) trad climber. Here's the blow by blow: I brought 1 set of nuts, one each Camalot C3, and C4's 2 each up to #3, plus one #4 and several slings.
I ran it out to the big first ledge right before the crack for 3 reasons: 1) There weren't any bolts when I was there 2) traversing left to the little pocket a few feet below the roof did not seem worth the risk 3) the climbing up to the big stance on the right of the crack was probably 5.5 at most.
Once I got to the big stance at the right of roof/base of crack I first slotted a solid nut in the crack and clipped in. Then I placed a #.75 under the roof to left of crack with long sling, and a #3 high in the main crack. I know some would say overkill, but again I have four kids and didn't know how difficult the move into the crack would be. I got high feet, and a bomber hand jam to move easily into the crack. Once there I felt safe at every point placing gear. There was maybe one placement I had to make from a so-so position, but overall felt the climb was not strenuous or pumpy. I placed smaller cams in the back of the crack when I had an especially restful/painless stance to conserve my #4. I used double length slings when protecting from back of crack, and single length on everything else and had virtually zero rope drag. Was a little slippery up top because it started raining, but the climb got progressively easier. I agree with the 5.7+ rating. I didn't think there was any single move above 5.7, but it's a long route and runout at beginning so I see why some people call it 5.8. Crux for me was staring up at route before the climb. It looked a little intimidating. Overall, I thought it was really, really fun. It wasn't painful or awkward at any point for me, and solid hand jams all the way - what else could a trad climber ask for? Hope this helps!

This is the only 5.9 at the Gorge I didn't send on my first try. Definitely old school 5.9. IMHO more like a 10 because it's sustained and varied climbing - not one move of 5.9 followed by 5.6 moves like the Owl. Thank God for the rest after the first bulge. Probably my favorite climb at MG.