Rmsyll's Logbook (47 ascents)

Watching a bunch of Boy Scouts recently climbing the right side suggested again that the only hard part on this route is the first two bolts direct. Today, I rigged from the rings, and did the common right side without much pause, meaning 5.7 if that for top-rope. Especially if "Husband" is open, "Rain" is not worth the hazardous rigging, imo.

After finding a hold that makes the smooth part possible, this I preferred to the usual line on "Buzzard's Breath". But it has bothered me that there is only one rigging for this narrow wall, making for only one name by my notions. Kelly did have two numbers on his map at this face, and so did Attarian's map. But Jeff Dillon's /Guide/ says to climb "the vegetated dihedral" which I had failed to do before within 5.7 skills. Today, I tried it again, rigging from the large pine tree used for "Too Old" and, with more body jamming than I usually allow to be climbing, did it, with a different finish at the similar juggy top. I like it! And now consider there to be two 5.7 variations for "Buzzard's Breath" separated by a reportedly 5.10 straight up variation, with this route indeed in the crack with its own natural anchor.

Having done all but the finish before, having watched Michael do it from beside him from "Husband", today I did the very easy finish too with all of it to the left of the bolt line since I was roped from "Husband" (not recommended). Meaning, it can't be more than 5.7 that way, and definitely easier than the hard part of "Chicken Bone". As usual, the start is the hardest part.

Jeff's guide kept Kelley's 5.9 with no mention of Kelley's variations to 5.12. No one has told me before that there was such a hard part, other than everyone avoiding the first two bolts. Michael, another one "getting back into climbing", tried going straight up today, and said 5.11 for sure. He agreed that the hard part starts with getting past the little overhang to the first bolt, getting worse until the ledge. The rest of it stays the same, of course, easier than 5.9.

There were weekend groups in the usual popular places, so Riley lead to the left of here to rig this one for them. The anchors were gear beneath the left end of the huge roof, so the easiest lines were to the left of the rope and it took some work to get up to the finish face. What looks like an easier crack, isn't. It was a good work-out, and Erin agreed with 5.8 for the line she used. Riley found some harder parts to the right.

Having warmed up on the normal left-side route, Rob took a challenge and started the left face without using the other side of the narrow chimney. He then went up the overhanging right-hand upper face above the big ledge, pronouncing it 5.10 because it was so sandy in the few holds. Back down, he then started on and climbed the sharp overhanging arete beneath the big ledge. Steven then did the whole right-side route, agreeing with the initial 5.10 call.

If you hang the rope from the anchors, and stay on the flat left face, I was told that was the 5.8 line. I can do that, so it isn't 5.8; but I have to start using the right side of the corner, which is "Scoundrel". I cannot start left either, toward the dark vertical crack which is supposed to be the 5.9 line and looks like it to me. Except for cheating the start to warm up, it's good exercise, but for me nothing to get excited about.

The way we did it, this is definitely not a 5.10 route. For that (if that), you need to start and stay on the front left face, as David did at first. We then did the right face start and climb, and once you get on it's a 5.7 romp. Until you bump your head on the small roof. Before that, you must have gone around the sloped arete to the left face, and for us that was the main hard part. Above at the next overhang, getting up the crack is rather strange too, with a left hand-jam helpful.

Highly recommended -- IF you bring plenty of serious rigging for the anchor, as David did so well, setting the rope to the climber's right of the small boulder below the rim to hang along the arete.

Well, after two more, still with backing down and standing but no hanging, the first flash ascent ending last year's climbing was not a "flash in the pan". The hardest part (if we do not say "crux" for 5.7) is definitely between the early left flake and the ledge. There is a little finger pocket I have to get, with a painful finger-nail flake, to reach the halelujah jug to pull up to the ledge. Jeff Dillon's advice about doing it as a slab climb is top-most in my mind across that portion: smearing is all you can do with your feet. Also, there is a dinner-plate flake we all depend on that is getting looser. The rest is becoming a romp, by comparison, except for the last few moves: I cannot yet finish under the rings, I have to fake left, or easier right.

You know, it's the same view as from the parking lot overlook; but after the climb, somehow it's a lot better.

Marla and David McNeely were here recently and said they did this, so I tried it. This is the arete between "Goldilocks" and "Creative Germs" and the game is to not get on the easy "Goldilocks" face. Start with the vertical crack, up to the ledge, back left to climb the two points, finish to the top of the oblong block below the anchor. Short, varied, fun.