Tship's Logbook (8 ascents)

This sounds like Roof of Death (V3). Landing is actually not that bad minus the huge boulder. Basically think of it as lower landing and upper landing. Both are flat. Both are safe. Just 4 ft difference in height. 1-2 pads is honestly enough. To the right is a hard line and further right is razor arete which goes at V9ish.

Ended up down here to work on Five fingers roof problem (V6?). Did the traverse as a re-warm-up.

Flash/Onsight

Played with this and a bunch of other eliminates pointed out by guidebook author bob value.

Good landed. Very sustained through the first 4 or 5 moves. 3rd or 4th move being the crux. Easy V4?

Good route. Definitive crux (also gives the route its name). Very good climb.

Flash w/ some beta before I left the ground.

Good moderate crimper route. Sustained.

Flash/Onsight

V4 (solid). 5 tries total. Surprising holds kicked me off a few times (Cutting edge for a reason.) Very nice, sustained, crimp problem. Great holds. Classic

Rock right next to the landing so a pad and/or spotter recommended.

Harder than Birthday in my opinion.

V3/4, Good 1 stopper move problem. Classic.

Good landing, did without crash pad with a slight rain.

First arriving at the face, it looks like there is very little to actually start the route with other than a ledge at the bottom. Once up on the wall, a lot of things start coming in to view such as places to put your feet and a lot of lean holds. About 10 feet off the ground, one has to shimmy towards the right side of the wall and then make a move to the next ledge. This move goes to a ledge that is just out of reach of where the current position is. There is, however, a small (and I mean extremely tiny) place to put a foot and static to this ledge. It is also a nice dynamic move if you are bored. The climb gets easier for the next 5-10 feet and then you reach the overhang. From here there is a crack to plant feet on to the right, a little chip in the wall directly in front, and the overhanging rocks above you with very few handholds. On the first ascent, I probably spent 5-10 minutes just figuring out what, if any, holds existed. At this point, a lot of control and balance is required in your climb in order to top out without falling. I got to the top of the cliff but didn't top out entirely due to the nature of the section of the cliff above (a giant hill covered with brush).

Overall, especially towards the top, this route requires a lot of thinking and planning on how to reach the next move. It is good for a beginner and fun/warm-up for those more experienced before moving on to more difficult portions of the area.

5.8 to start, 5.5/5.6 for the small section in the middle, 5.8/5.9 to top out.

In order to reach this route, one can either rappel from the cliffs above (not recommended for first time climbers) or hike around to a path leading down the cliffs and then climb up to this ledge right underneath the anchor points bringing you to the base of this wall (this takes about 10-15 minutes).



~Matthew Tschippert