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backclipped's Logbook (4 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Juniper Canyon: Brownstone Wall

Armatron popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: backclipped on 2010-10-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Armatron to the top

Armatron is the full meal deal: great approach, impeccable setting, engaging climbing. You will not be disappointed if you punch this route to the top--the summit view is searing. I personally found the 5.9 pitch to be the best and most secure pitch on the route. The 5.6 plates are unique, but the left leaning feel of the climbing kept me from relaxing. Did any one else feel that way? Anyhow, we had the misfortune of listening to a rescue go down on Crimson. Helicopters are distracting.

Added: 2010-11-06

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Juniper Canyon: Rose Tower

Olive Oil popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: backclipped on 2010-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A fine trade route

Climbed the route with a 70m to avoid any hanging belays. First pitch has a 5.7 move that can be protected with a couple of small cams. Second pitch is nice and long. You won't have to worry about gear economy because there isn't any gear to be had on the second half of the route (don't worry, the climbing is cruiser). I traversed right immediately after leaving the second pitch belay...don't remember much else. Pitch four is brilliant. I didn't experience any of the slot groveling that I've read in other accounts. If you feel like you're getting suckered into anything weird look around, there are holds all over carnation. This pitch is run-out in spots...but don't fret, it's cruiser. The Handren guide recommends a single rack to four. I prefer and carried a little more than that.

Added: 2010-11-06

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: White Rock Spring Area: Angel Food Wall

Purblind Pillar Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: backclipped on 2010-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First real multi-pitch with the fiance

Purblind is every bit as good as its neighbors to the left. Surely not a sustained 5.8, but there is enough run-out terrain to keep you engaged. I'd beef up your rack from the Handren guidebook recommends. A single rack of cams to four is a bit skimpy.

Added: 2010-11-06

Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Eagle Bluff: The Practice Wall

Crossover Direct Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: backclipped on 2010-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crossover Direct

Why does this route called Crossover Direct? There is nothing direct about it. For a better line ascend Wheaties, clip an anchor bolt and proceed up the awesome flake.

Added: 2010-10-09