baldwinwb's Logbook (6 ascents)

I used this route to practice placing trad protection. This was the first time I have tried a trad route and I was suprised how easy gear placement was on it. You can use a bolt or two from the route just left of this over the first 15' before you get to some excellent cracks for placing cams and stoppers.

This is great place to try to lead for the first time. The bolts are closely spaced. There are not too many 5.5s that are well bolted like this.

Nothing too special, the approach is almost as difficult as the climb. Scramble up steep loose rocks to the climb. We did this one because we wanted an easy route for our 7 year olds. The approach and stagging area was a little too rough, so we will not be doing this one again. The bolts are spaced closely together, but there are no fixed anchors. I chose to down climb and retrieve my protection on the way down rather than leave gear at the top. Down climbing was more fun than the ascent.

I set this up as a top rope while a buddy was belaying for our kids on the easier Gumby routes to save time with the setup. Bolts are closely spaced for an safe easy lead. I have seen this listed as a 5.9- and 5.8+, seemed more like a 5.8+ to me, still the hardest route in the area.

This was my first lead, it was fun, but I wouldn't recommend it to other looking for a first lead.

I lead the 5.7 on the other side of the pinnacle and set up a top rope for this route. The roof is fun, I fell a couple times on my first attempt and then climbed it clean the second try.