bigwalling's Logbook (32 ascents)

I heard several people say this is rumored to be the best route on El Cap. I highly doubt it! It's good but I saw stuff that looked a lot cooler. But if you want to climb some easy aid and do LOTS of it this is the route to do. Id goes with no hammers if the heads and rurps(a couple) are fixed.

This climb is pretty good but the ratings are kinda whack. Almost all the heads on this climb are 3's and 4's, lots of #5's it looked like too. I don't think I saw a #1 on the whole climb. That said the whole climb is in the realm of C1F, otherwise A1. You could belay mid-pitch on just heads if you wanted. But I would'nt reccomend that. The sketchiest placements on this climb was the old bolts, which would still hold falls probably.

Reason for 3 stars, millions of pin scars, heads in alien placements and bolts in stupid areas. The Seagull is totally whacked! There are big heads next to the bolt ladder, I think Sutton took that whipper and was a loser and bolted it instead of falling again. That said the position of the climb is awesome and I would do it again. Someone should remove all the extra 1/4"er's and patch the holes at the numerous belays. Oh and all the hooks are well worn, which was weird and new to me.

Update Rack to:
beak
2 arrows
5/8" angle for handplacing
some heads include a #3 or 4 circle head
thin cord to thread rurps

Approched via first pitch Green Dragon and travesed over to a belay. The 2nd pitch is way cool! I had to seach a little harder for the placements due to lichen. There are 2 unnessasay bolts on this pitch. One is origanal and the other is a big 3/8 in the dumbest spot I've ever seen.

Easy, did it to warm up for the next climbs. But my shoes were in desperate need of resoling and would not have lasted through 11 slabs.

No comment

fun, big moves

the move to the finishing horn is real big and weird.

kinda hard move off pinch block.

this is pretty easy if you don't try and use that sucky pinch.

Well, I couldn't get the cave variation so this had to do. Pretty fun, but gets wet due to an abundence of moss.

jugs, no need to slip your rock shoes on.