Routes : Reviews
brandonsequoia's Logbook (22 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (4)
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Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 08. West Side Crags: Angel Flight Crags
A Desperate Man
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Sweet Mixed climb!
Corey led, I cleaned...
Added: 2008-02-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: West Ship River Face
Phone Call From Satan
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Slabs Suck!
Seconded, because I hate onsighting slabs!
Added: 2008-02-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 02. The Wooden Ships-The Gullies: Honeycomb Wall
Seasonal Affective Disorder
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Best 5.10 intro lead at Smith!
If you're breaking into leading 10's, do this short route first! Get over the skinny start ledge, as it actually adds to the safety and appeal of this route. Good jugs the whole way up, solid clipping stances, and overhanging enough to make lead falls relatively safe. Also short enough to avoid pumping out from the inevitable first 5.10 lead overgripping!
Added: 2008-02-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 04. The Dihedrals: Left Center
Wedding Day ***
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Top-roped
And I think it's harder than most 5.10b's in the Park. Very balancy, not very positive holds, dicey feet, exposure.... A fun climb, but harder than most 10b's at Smith.
Added: 2007-10-09
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 05. Christian Brothers East Wall: Combination Blocks
Double Trouble
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Not much trouble...
Super fun climb, very enjoyable lead. The bolts are awesome, so well spaced. In fact, they are a little too close, but it helps when you step off the first block and fall onto the second. I'd probably downgrade this to a 5.9+....
Added: 2007-10-09
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 08. West Side Crags: Pleasure Palace
Matthew 7:24
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a V2 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
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Fun Factor | ![]() |
An Interesting Story...
My partner dirted me from the crux because I was taking too long, hanging around like a sack of potatoes, or a drowned pig.... So I redpointed it, second try. Very much a boulder problem. Bring a few pads and a few good spotters, and leave the ropes for the surrounding climbs.
Added: 2007-09-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 04. The Dihedrals: Left
Ancylostoma **
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Both Pitches
The second pitch goes at 5.6, well bolted, super slabby, kind of brittle due to few ascents, but a great view, an awesome top-out experience, well worth the effort! We hiked up to Pleasure Palace and climbed a bit before descending through Aggro Gully.
Added: 2007-09-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 21. Northern Point: West Side
Thumper
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Most Recent of Several Ascents
I freaking LOVE this climb!! A great crack climb!! A little bit of everything on this one... Sit Start, lie-back, stem, hand jam, finger seam, crimpy face holds, a bit of balancy foot work, .... My only complaint is that it's not longer!!
Added: 2007-09-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 21. Northern Point: West Side
Sartin R&B
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
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Full Valued and Balancy
I attempted this climb on top-rope about a year ago and was blown off 20 feet up. The balancy, awkward moves and over vertical angle make it a real challenge. I was tempted to lead it on Thursday, since my climbing has improved markedly in the last year, but in the end decided to check it out on top-rope first. I'll be leading it next week, for sure! I'd call it a 10b, but a very fun one!
Added: 2007-09-29
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 03. Morning Glory Wall Area: The Peanut
Pop Goes the Nubbin **
Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Like Butter...
Not! The peanut is one of the least enjoyable features at Smith Rock, in my opinion. A very knobby slab whose finish is no more rewarding than it is difficult.
Added: 2007-09-29