brap's Logbook (4 ascents)

Sketchy without a cam. I fully advocate saving bolts where there are cracks, but just be aware of the fact that this climb is unsafe without a small cam.

Totally doable without cam but potential groundfall I'm guessing. (from a whopping 15 ft I know :))

As mentioned below, there isn't a bolt at the top. There's a fixed pin on the opposite side but it's not something I personally would lower off of. I was getting ready to bail a stopper and someone yelled to me to use the anchor on the middle finger climb. There are 2 bolts (middle finger anchor) on the wrong face (90 degrees off), that must be threaded.

So your choices are to downclimb (not THAT bad) or clip in direct to the bolts and thread the rope. Bad setup. Like mentioned below you will groundfall from the top and the landing is a bunch of sharp boulders.

It's tempting to climb up this because it's easy and seems so cool to sit atop the middle finger. If your slab downclimbing is solid, it's no problem. Otherwise steer clear.

ONLY CLIMB THIS IF YOU ARE SETTING UP A TR ON MIDDLE FINGER. THIS IS NOT AN ACTUAL CLIMB IN ITSELF.

I don't know why but I'm a fan of this climb. It's very mission gorgey (short, 3 bolts, slick), but it's satisfying. It's not difficult but there're 1-2 committing moves for a new leader.

Bottom line: I don't care if it's a 5.7 it makes me smile every time!

This climb gets a lot of hype is because it's long for mission gorge. It's not really a HARD 5.9 but it's a bit heady because of the slick rock and it does take time to find all the good holds. Once you find em it's pretty easy, but seems scary until you do. I was smiling on my way down so I guess it's a pretty fun climb. It's just not my style. (ledgy, traversing, slick) Excuses, I know :)