burtonbc's Logbook (7 ascents)

The 10a pitch depending on the size of your hands (mine are kinda fat) can be tricky. If lots of pro makes you feel good you may want to add an extra .75 and #1 C4 (on top of the recommended super topo rack) for this climb. Although I felt safe enough without them. 3rd pitch is really secure hand jamming in the right facing corner, easy exit out of the corner and then up to the belay. 4th pitch is excellent and exposed hand jamming, very secure and well protected. 5th pitch fun and engaging with the thin hand jam traverse into the wide crack to the top, excellent exposure!

First pitch fun and engaging with a variety of techniques from fingers to thin hands and hands to fist, fun terrain to negotiate all the way up to the belay. Not a gimme 10b pitch. Second pitch is super fun with the airy traverse into the cruiser hand jam swimming to the top.

There is good pro on the first pitch, just play it cool for the first 30'-40' walking up the very secure pin scar pockets (they are huge), then you'll get all the gear you need. Second pitch is fun with the tenuous face traverse into the crack to the right, but then very secure. Third pitch is AWSOME!! Really fun and well protected hand jamming into the thin crux. If you want to be well protected at the crux you better have some lock off strength to place your pieces, otherwise you'll have to place one as high as you can at the beginning and then run yourself out with considerable fall potential if you blow it.

Fun exposed boulder problem, actually fell a couple times figuring out the squence.

First pitch is dicey, long way up to the first bolt on slab. Second pitch is definitely the crux (and sandbagged), honestly the first time I did this climb I fell 4 times in the middle of the second pitch. The crack in the corner peters out to practically nothing for about 15', The top edge of the corner and the face are slicker than slick, so move quickly and make sure you do it in the shade. The rest of the climb is much easier but enduro. Great climb.

Good fingers first pitch with a slight pump at the top. Most people seem to say that the beginning of the second pitch is difficult (flared chimney thing), although getting established in the chimney off the belay is a little tricky I thought it was pretty standard after that.

Really fun warm up climb.