bustinmins's Logbook (29 ascents)

I learned volumes on this route. I got much better at trusting my feet and also jamming my hands/fingers. I will do this one again - on lead at some point. Great route.

This was my first full-on crack climb while on lead. It was a great time but it took me too long to climb it. I had great fun. The downclimb was an epic of sorts. I decided to bail rather than downclimb because I just didn't feel comfortable hopping over a gorge to a downsloping ledge. The other option was downclimbing 5.6 - so in two pieces went and we bailed off.

This was my first lead since May 2005. I broke a bone in my foot and was out the majority of the season. I top roped this route the week before and came back to lead it. The West Bench area is a fun place with a lot of different problems to work. The dihedral, while short, was fun and I'd recommend it to someone new to jams.

This was a fun route. It was also quite a challenge for a 5.5. Lately, I've been climbing in Eldorado Canyon where I find the placements very quickly. However, on this route, I found myself digging for more gear as my "eye" for placements was pretty far off for some reason. The nut cracks would look like they need a larger nut. I would pull and place it only to find it doesn't fit well. I have a pretty good eye for pro but apparently it needs a little more eleven mile canyon time. I found the nut placements to go about two-four sizes lower than they appear. You really have to work them in deep to get a good placement instead using the more obvious larger spot that persuades you to pull a larger nut in the first place. You'll find yourself reaching for smaller sizes quite often. The rest of the route, I placed two cams with the exception of the anchor. For the anchor, you'll need 3/4" - 1" pieces for a great horizontal crack. There is also a nice hex or #3 cam space below the anchor to protect an upward pull. As for the rest of the pro I used, take your pick! I used nuts, tri-cams and a few hexes. I don't normally place a lot of tri-cams but I must admit, on this route, they were great for quick placements.

NOTE: If you decide to bail off the route by taking the ledge left at the belay. You'll need to traverse(not scramble) about 120' or so to the left. You'll be looking for an obvious large water gully(class 3). On the traverse, bring along some larger gear. I used a 3.5, 4 and a few nuts to protect it. I didn't consider it a scramble as it was described in the route section. You'd be looking at a nasty pendulum fall. In addition, PLEASE PROTECT YOUR SECOND in the harder spots. Make sound placements BEFORE AND AFTER a hard move to protect your second from taking a pendulum fall. There aren't many places for an anchor 120' to the left but there are a few chossy placements and slings around flakes/boulders that are available. You'll be on a large ledge by the time you get 120' left. Take the obvious water gully(class 3) to the top. You'll find several nice boulders to anchor off to belay your second. Exit right off of the back side to walk down the trail to the road. If you left something behind at the start of the climb, look for the trail that takes you just below the face.

If you're looking for a great first trad lead look at Eldorado Canyon's Whale's Tail route called West Crack or West Dihedral. These are better routes for first time trad leaders.

This route was fun and I had a great time. I wouldn't recommend it for novice leaders because the pro placements are a bit tricky and you have to play with them for a bit to get a good one. If you've been leading for a while, you'll enjoy it.

What a fun route! I enjoy dihedrals, jugs and cracks. This route has it all.

A nice 8. I'm looking forward to leading this one sometime soon.

I enjoyed this route. I took my sweet time getting up the first 20 feet. I chose the 5.6 start just under or left of the Boulder. I used a #4 Camalot in the first 10 feet to protect that slabby start. I must admit that it didn't feel like any 6 I had ever been on. :) The route is easily traversed from atop the boulder to the dihedral section. Bring long slings! The dihedral was very protectable with a few cams and several nuts - I was finally able to use both of my #13 stoppers! :) The roof traverse is definitely something worthy of respect. It is quite positive overall but it does deserve some careful protection. I was able to slot two opposing nuts in the roof and then once moving around the corner to the right I found two piton scars that accepted a green and yellow aliens for double protection on that side. If you don't have these pieces of equipment, everything you put in will most likely be insufficient. There is a nice or should I say attractive area just below the two piton scars that just won't hold jack! I played with that area for about 5 minutes using about four to five different pieces. Then I saw the scars. :) Moving up from there is the beginning of the 5.6 section and it shows. Nothing as hard as the "6" start, better hands but the hands are on a vertical line and not a horizontal line. Easily done but you slip right here (and if you're pieces aren't bomber after the traverse) you're going to swing back into the dihedral. #1 place in Eldo for accidents! Cruise up the remaining crack to the ledge. The last ten feet prior to the ledge is the "upper" crux if you ask me. Hand jam with right arm...step up on a few little feet placements and reach for the very top of the crack - a GOLDEN finger placement that unlocks the move. :) I felt like having a cigarette after getting that finger in - it was nice! Then as you traverse over to the bolt anchors, don't forget to place one more placement to protect your second on the traverse. I didn't climb the second pitch but I surely enjoyed this one. I'll bag the 5.6 crack above very soon.

Nice route. Harder than it looks. Stone is pretty rough on your hands.

Fun Route. This is my hardest attempt. Fell repeatedly but then, this climb is six grades above my comfortable lead. I am very greatful for my rope-gun - KILLCLIMBZ. I appreciate the help!

Front Range Top Ropes rates this an 8 but I feel that it is a 7. It is NOT a 5 though - that you can rest assure.