Routes : Reviews
chipacles's Logbook (19 ascents)
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Routes: Asia: Japan: Kansai: Ura-rocko Eboshi-iwa: Eboshi-iwa Main face
Ojiichan no dotadota
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Redpoint
Took me three tries. First time up was just to get a feeling for how to move from the second to third bolt, and had a hairy time of it. Second time up I got to the anchors. Third time up I sent it...though not without a bit of a rest in the middle while I tried to remember the moves to get above the third bolt.
Added: 2009-07-13
Routes: Asia: Japan: Kansai: Ura-rocko Eboshi-iwa: Komagakata-iwa
Figure Head
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Flash!
My first 11b flash. I watched a friend of mine climb it, and saw how he negotiated the crux, as well as a few other sort of sketchy parts, then I sent it on my first try. Damn happy. Especially as it was hot, and conditions weren't at their best.
Added: 2009-07-13
Routes: Asia: Japan: Kansai: Ura-rocko Eboshi-iwa: Komagakata-iwa
Prominence
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second try
I was ecstatic to redpoint this on my second try. It's a beautiful line, a lot of fun. The crux is a bit scary, but not too bad, and a big thrill when you get it.
Awesome.
Awesome.
Added: 2009-06-13
Routes: Asia: Japan: Kansai: Ura-rocko Eboshi-iwa: Eboshi-iwa Main face
Taiyo Ga Ippai
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash
Not too difficult, and for me much less scary than Shayou, across the valley. Nice, nice, nice view from the top.
Added: 2009-04-24
Routes: Asia: Japan: Kansai: Ura-rocko Eboshi-iwa: Eboshi-iwa Main face
Wing
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Redpoint
A fun move, sort of a boulder move, to start you off (after the scamble up). From there, the moves aren't so hard, but require balance. A fun little route.
Added: 2009-04-24
Routes: Asia: Japan: Kansai: Ura-rocko Eboshi-iwa: Eboshi-iwa Main face
Tough
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Finally!
After what must have been at least 10 tries, probably more like 15, I finally understood the moves needed to get over the crux.
Instead of using two slopers and trying to reach the hole with my right, I change my right hand to a side crimp, layback a bit to the right, match hands, then reach the hole with my right hand.
Instead of using two slopers and trying to reach the hole with my right, I change my right hand to a side crimp, layback a bit to the right, match hands, then reach the hole with my right hand.
Added: 2009-04-23
Routes: Asia: Japan: Chugoku: Okayama: bicchu-chou Area: Nagayazaki
Spring (スプリング)
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Redpoint
I made it halfway up this route, just to the crux, then fell, my only fall of the day. I finished it out, rested, then went back for the red point. Fun climbing.
Added: 2009-04-20
Routes: Asia: Japan: Chugoku: Okayama: bicchu-chou Area: Nagayazaki
Walking Path Wall (壁のさんぽ道)
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Flash!
Although this wasn't a really tough route, I had a bit of a hard time at the crux, which I'd arrogantly thought would be easy...but I discovered upon reaching it that I understood the hand movements but not the feet, and so took quite a while to figure it out. A nice climb, though.
Added: 2009-04-20
Routes: Asia: Japan: Chugoku: Okayama: bicchu-chou Area: Nagayazaki
Prana (プラナ)
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight
Not a fun route, really, but good warm up. As my first route of the day, my arms were pretty pumped when I finished it.
Added: 2009-04-20
Routes: Asia: Japan: Chugoku: Okayama: bicchu-chou Area: Nagayazaki
TT High School
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash!
My last climb of the day, I was pretty damn happy to flash this route, which some of my friends thought was harder than the 11a "Spring" right next to it. For me, as I didn't need to jump but could make the move with my longer reach, it wasn't so bad.
Added: 2009-04-20
