diggler's Logbook (10 ascents)

One of the best climbs I've done. Approach is 4.5 miles, straightforward, & by & large mellow (don't believe any horror stories). If you look at the map (most label the second lake as Sky Pond, so I don't understand any confusion here), it should be obvious (also it is completely obvious where the formation is- once you get to Sky Pond, the view is exactly the one shown in every guidebook).

First 2 pitches (straight up the most obvious chimney system I've ever seen) are straightforward, easy 5th. Then the climbing gets fun!

I found the crux to be burly for a 5.8, but the pro' is bomber, so go for it!

Remainder of climb is highly enjoyable. Second (?) pitch above the ledge directly above the crux pitch requires some route-finding, but if you follow the chalk, fixed pieces, & the easiest line, it's not too bad- just be mindful of rope drag.

Summit is perhaps the most outrageous I've ever been on- extremely invogorating!

We only had one rope for the rappels, which made the descent a bit more tedious than I was hoping for, but you CAN get down with 1 60 (though 2 would definitely make it easier- wish that rap' stations accomodated those with 1 rope better; the actual climb is fine to do with just one 60)- it just takes some more hunting around/some easy downclimbing.

Excellent climb, amazing formation & rock, great pro. A classic, just like Steck & Roper called it.

Awesome route! Sustained, interesting, & thought-provoking climbing. .6 or not, the 'R' certainly got my attention! I was very glad to get to my next piece of pro'... IMO, one of the best climbs at The Leap.

As it is not a ST climb, expect to have this one to yourself. That said, a great 2-pitch climb! First pitch is fun jamming & liebacking up the dihedral (.8 to .10a). I would call the first 15' of the 2nd pitch the crux- extremely strenuous jamming/stemming/sidepulling (any way you go about it, it will be a struggle) to surmount the bulge- this protects well with a nut &/or #1 Camalot or equivalent. A ~20' .7 off-width (4-5"(?) pro) slightly slows down the cruiser ride above. The mobs on top of DAFF will wonder what you are doing across from them.

Short but sweet. Great pro' the whole way up (contrary to Supertopo, a #3 Camalot is quite beneficial for transitioning from one crack to the wider one above- glad I brought one just in case!). Led the R variation, TRd the L one- both really fun, great fingers on the L variation. Thought I was going to peel towards the top (my arms felt like they were ready to explode), but I managed to pull it together & finish without incident. Both variations are great to run laps on- leave some directionals.

Beware the abundant poison oak!

Was a hairwidth from my first .10a redpoint (or even flash), when I slipped trying to decipher the face section at the top and fell at the bolt- d'oh!! Next try I hang-dogged it even more. Finally redpointed it this year. Good pro', a nice sustained crux section, & just an overall really fun climb!

Did this one with Joe Dawson. First pitch fun (also the approach pitch to West Wall- a great climb too). Second pitch is the money pitch- jamming, stemming, liebacks, & sustained- awesome! Great pro' the whole way up too.

Probably one of the most enjoyable alpine climbs I've done! Exceptional scenery, just about perfect rock, & really fun climbing.

Belayed 2 pitches on the upper, did the lower belayed. Crux, I'd say, is the Black Wall (& route-finding up it). Climbed the mountain in my 5.10 Exum Guides, fittingly :)

When topping out on the Upper Exum (before climbing to the top of the actual summit pinnacle), look around for the start of the rap' station- if you see others, make a mental note of where it starts for the descent.

Did this with Gordon in preparation for our Teton trip. Excellent climbing!

Was gripped when starting the infamous .7R section, but got into the groove, took it one move at a time, & was at the dihedral (& pro') before I knew it. I think that finding the calm to get through a situation with potentially dangerous consequences for f%$&ing up is one of the most rewarding parts of climbing.

Anyway, a great climb with a good friend & awesome day! Going to the DOA campground later, with typical associated debauchery, was also a lot of fun :)

Climbing a lot of fun, especially finding the roughed-up stuff in between the vast stretches of glacier-polished stuff.

First pitch fun climbing; bolts a little ways apart; if you were to fall, you'd just go for a slide.

Second pitch, the 2nd(?) bolt is a ways above the first(?)- crimping & mantling on thin edges (the crux); if you were to fall here (before pulling the crux & clipping), I could see getting some bad ankle sprain(s) (or worse).

A great day out climbing with Rob. Amazingly, no-one else on route. Smokey due to forest fires all day; made surroundings surreal... Watch the 5.8 sections down low- tricky! I took a short fall here, then fired the 5.9 roof on lead. Aided the bolt ladder. Wouldn't mind coming back to do again (& trying to free the .10c!).