dulfersitz's Logbook (2 ascents)

Climb up through the right 'V' onto slabs above. Start with left hand on the good flake in the left 'V'. First move is right hand high onto the arret (fun sloper -- chalk up!).

The good-looking hands are deceptive. I couldn't get anywhere on this problem until I surveyed it from above.

I think the sit-start variation will go at V5/6.

5.11 slab start: a high left foot onto a marginal edge is the crux beta. Then easy climbing with good no-hands rest to reach twin seams about 2/3rds up wall. 5.12a crux move: move your hands to the crimps in left & right seams and match feet in large left pocket. Keep right foot in large pocket, and cross through with left foot to smaller toe pocket under right seam. Bump left hand up twice until left hand seam widens into a good hold. Follow obvious hands up with 5.11 climbing to finish.

Crux feels 12a to me. The crux is similar difficulty and style to "Flesh for Lulu" at Rumney. This climb would be five stars if it were twice as long or more sustained.