euphoricclimbing's Logbook (2 ascents)

Again, lumpy holds so many classics. This is the best 5.8 at lumpy in my opinion. Pitch 1 - climb a left facing corner for 80-100ft. The crux of the pitch is the thin portion of the corner about 60ft up. Takes gear well - just look for it. Continue up to the roof via a easy 5.7/5.8 crack. I don't think you need a BD cam #3 to protect the roof, but it won't hurt either. 5ft after the roof, a nice TCU placement is found. Angle up and right via a crack to the 2 bolt belay ledge. Pitch 2 - the best 5.8 flaring finger/hand crack in the world. Prepare to test your skills at the grade. First twenty feet are easy and good for placements. Continue up the crack and place stopper/tcu at any interval you wish. Smears with your feet are available on the left side more than the right. Finish the crack and come to a horn with rap slings around. There is a 5in crack back and on the right of the offwidth section starting after the horn. I set two BD #.75 and combined them with the rap slings on the horn to equalize against for a nice belay. You can bail and rap down, but why not finish a classic route. Pitch 3 - 30ft of easy offwidth. Start facing the right for 10ft, then switch and face left. Notice the finger crack within the offwidth, which will make your day easier. Continue into 5.6 flaring chimney with hand holds on either side. Contniue all the way in the chimney and then stay on the right side to cross over to the backside of the bookmark. Look for the two rap bolts. Look at my fanatsy ridge description for more into.

I lead pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 - Can't miss the 5.7 angling crack, should actually start the climb about 1/3 from the start of the crack. Just climb 8ft or so from the ground and place a BD #3 and continue up the crack. Pitch 2 - should be strong/experienced at 5.9. A tcu placement is pretty easy about 3 or 5 feet after the bolt. Make sure you angle up and right on face moves, then make a nice reach for the 5.5 crack to the right of the face climbing. Pitch 3 - One of the best pitches at 5.9. Take the right crack and venture under the roof. Take the right side of the roof, which has a nice placement before pulling over on positive handholds. Then, continue in a easy 5.7 or 5.8 crack for 10 ft. Next, face climb for a short section (place pro before you start the face climbing) and come up to a 5.9 crack on the left side of the bulge. Take the crack(the crux) for 15ft or so, and end up at a nice belay ledge with several cracks for a good belay. Pitch 4 - Start with 15ft of sold 5.9 climbing with many placement options, then continue to easy spires on the backside of the bookmark formation. The rap bolts are located on the left back side - 2 bolts. Rap for a 90-100ft down semi - loose gully. Find a few rap slings and make another 75ft rap down a lower angled gully. You will end up at the beginning of the left book.