faust's Logbook (172 ascents)

A little thin the day we were there. We climbed some WI1 on the right side of the pullout to allow access to some fun toproping, including the main climb (WI2) and a neat, steep pillar to the left (WI4?)

Cool place . . . crowded though.

Maybe a touch more difficult than it's neighbor, this is still a good beginner's climb.

When the highway lights are on, this is a great place for some weekday evening cragging! All you need is a small headlamp for fiddling with gear.

Too bad it's so close to the highway, because this is a great beginner's lead.

I have yet to find somebody who agrees, but for me Henry's is tougher than WI2. This was my first ice lead (after having TR'd the climb several times) and it scared the living piss out of me. The angle gradually steepens until the final bit, which is damn near vertical. I placed too many screws, wore myself out, over-gripped, got cold as hell, had to run out the last 20 feet, knocked a death block off that nearly hit my belayer, and came within a millimeter of puking at the top as I shook so bad I had to wait before tying into the alders.

Maybe it's not really that bad, maybe it was all in my head. Have to go back, I guess.

Although narrower than Henry's (it's neighbor to the left) Blitz is my favorite of the two Beer Climbs. The first part is low-angle, cruising stuff, and was good for a beginner's lead for me. At the top of this easy section, there's a flat part (with tree's you could rap from) leading to a final, 20-ft vertical pillar.

Have climbed several times, once leading the last pitch. I find it hard to remember particulars, the details are obscured by Ripple, a nearby climb that is more striking. The angle gradually steepens from barely WI2 to a final pillar that some consider WI3. Good for a beginning lead, I think, one could even rap from the bolt station below the crux.

This is a great and massive climb. I've was on it several times during my first season, usually following more experienced partners but once leading the second pitch. The intial (~50 ft?) steep curtain leads to a bolted belay on the right. The middle third of the climb is low angle, WI2, rolling stuff . . . after which the ice steepens up again for the last bit. Bolted belay at the top.

Actually there are a couple, low-angle ice flows back here. Best way to find them the first time is to hike from the parking lot back to Thunderbird Falls, then backtrack downriver until you see the climbs on the left. They may be covered with snow. Legitimate WI1, these are very easy. If you are at all comfortable on ice you would not consider protecting them, but I think they're very good for beginning leaders to get their heads straight. They were good for me in that regard.

The closest climb to the parking lot at Eklutna. My partner and I often TR'd this climb during our first season. A couple mixed moves near the begining in most conditions . . . once through this crux it's pretty cruiser.

Lots of cool TR opportunities (once you lead up the easy way). Easiest route up the middle of the ice sheet was probably WI2.