guidervt's Logbook (7 ascents)

Go early, get's crowded at the base

Great route on good holds. Fab view from top. Get there early before the area is overrun by school kids!

Great, interesting holds and well bolted. If you are physically strong and looking to break into the grade, this is your route!
Walked up, sent it first try, walked away. Made me feel young again!

Don't be intimidated by the steep rock, the holds are huge!

Walked up, flashed it, walked away. It will make you feel like a "hardman" again! I think I clipped 8 bolts not 7. Big holds on steep rock. Good short persons route, if you are strong.

I did the first lead of this route I think in 1992? I am really not sure of the date. I know that it was no later than the winter of that year ( my daughter was born and my climbing came to a screaching halt). I did the lead after doing it TR with no falls. Originally I hand drilled two or three bolts for the lead (bolts drilled in any manner were controversial in VT at the time), hence the decision to hand drill and only place minimal bolts. I did the Red Point this way with several natural placements as well. After a bit of furor both ways I added (I think) one more bolt. The day of the red point I was belayed by Peter Fielding. We were both employees of Climb High at the time. The original route was very direct, not using the then very dirty, vegetated corner to the left at the start. The first red point I went straight up the face (10a/b face move), and directly up through the first roof, and directly through the second little overlap ( crux 11b move), to the top. I later realized that going directly through this last overlap was a bit contrived. So from then on I would go left below this feature and then move back right before continuing up. This seems more natural.
I hear that many people now start this route in the once nasty corner to the left. This eliminates what may be the technical crux of the route. At the time of the first lead this route was definitely an R not PG13. The route is named after the Police song. I am giving it a 10d grade for the first ascent only because of the final overlap direct.
I am providing this information for historical perspective only.

I'm not sure of the year, let alone the date, but I led this route on-sight, no falls some time in the early nineties. I was seconded by Austin Paulson, owner of Peak Adventures (or whatever he calls it these days), and Andy Holt from Climb High / Mammut. At the time we called it The Great Corner or something like that. At the time the only fixed gear on the route was an old manky buttonhead at the top of the dihedral, and a small welded nut on the left wall about mid pitch of the dihedral. I was able to sew this final pitch up quite well with at least 4 -5 small wedges evenly spaced along the inside of the corner. Obviously I clipped the fixed nut and the buttonhead as well. I hear that this last pitch is now bolted, which is really a shame as this pitch was very easily protected. Please understand that I say this even coming from a background containing many pure sport first ascents, primarily at the New River Gorge. I've just never understood bolting next to a crack which so easily accepts pro. Anyway, this is a classic pitch, if only it were a bit longer!