heinricharrier's Logbook (7 ascents)

Fun route, likely 5.10a vs reported 5.9. Definitely harder than anything on Gold Wall.

Fun and longer than other routes on Gold Wall

Straightforward

Not too tough, short

Marshall Burke was able to send the crux overhanging, diagonal fist crack free at 5.10b and I followed. Route felt even better free, though doubles are definitely needed for #2-#4, with only one #5 that you can walk up above the flake until the chimney.

This is a legitimately excellent crack climb, not just by Western Kenya standards.

Fun route. Loose but better than most Main Wall routes. Partner was not able to get through the crux on the last pitch so had to lower her to the belay, pull the rope up, and rappel down to here from the top. Left gear on top but recovered later by walking around. Removed Simon's (resident guide) bail sling to the left off the belay at the top of pitch 1 (he went the wrong way - should have gone straight up instead of left). Added the biner to the slings on the belay at top of P1 and returned sling to him.

Wear a helmet and expect to walk off. Can only rappel the route with 70m rope without leaving gear. Even with 70m, must leave gear after the top of Pitch 2.

Fun climb if you're stuck in Western Kenya with limited options.