helios's Logbook (30 ascents)

This line inspired me to try twice, but could only pull the crux once after a good rest.

Got it on second go.

lots of thinker holds on this one!

I liked the upper part of this, nice big holds you can take your time on.

Found the crux harder for this than critters to the right.

Seemed more like 10a than 11a

I conquered an inner demon on this route and learned several lessons. Lesson one, read the guidebook. I somehow thought this was a 2 pitch route and that the big gear isn't needed until the second pitch. I placed everything above a #1 camalot (a 2, 2 3's and a 4) down low. I got to about 15 feet below the anchors and could not place anything in the large crack. Even tried stacking nuts, but I placed my largest two below. To my relief I spotted a pocket for a pink tricam and worked up the balls to pull up to the anchor. Still not really sure that the lip of the pocket would have held a long fall, but I did find a nice #1 cam placement above the offwidth section. Lesson 2 is to not rest on the rope just because of a little foot pain and to climb through it - ruined my on-sight!!!

Good moves

fell just before anchors, went for wrong hold...

After knocking off a redpoint of Antkiller, my partner and I tried this fun, wide crack. After doing it we realised it was our first all-gear onsight.