ikellen's Logbook (23 ascents)

Finally lead it. BRING THE MICRO-NUTS!!! I ran out of my small nuts and lead the sub-fingers part with all the pods 12 feet above a yellow alien. Once you pull the short and easy roof though, the climbing is like 5.2. Amazing stemming. This route is not a traditional crack climb, and the gear is not easy unless you are carrying the small wires that the pods in the finger crack take. Without micronuts, you might be able to throw thin aliens, but alot of the placements are flaring and might not hold on a fall. The climbing is relatively secure though, so as long as you are pretty solid at the grade you probably won't have problems. With micronuts, the route sews up solid. If you aren't solid on 5.7, you might feel sketched and start trying to shove small cams into the pods, which may and probably will blow in a fall.

And of course, this is all relative to whether or not you can actually get on the route. Either get there really early, or late in the day.

Did the route at 5:30 in the morning. Cast off in the dark, and the sunrise lit up the first pitch. Quality climbing, although make sure you know which rap stations to hit on the descent!

First Ascent

the two bottom bulges are sweet, and then easy climbing up the clean vertical section at the end make the route awesome!

The crux mantle took me a few tries to get, but overall a good route.

Start is interesting, but the broken holds make the upper headwall a little less interesting :(

The bottom dihedral was awesome! However, the chimneys above were not especially enjoyable.

The crimps were a bit polished, and the feet were hit or miss. I think the bottom section could be 10c, however once you hit the basketball sized knob it's smooth cruizing.

Simple straight up splitter, pulling the ultra mini roof is probably the crux, but the jams are solid.

I've climbed the route 4 times now, and I've done the top finger crack 4 different ways. The gear just drops in on this route, just dont belay off the bolts.