j_ung's Logbook (191 ascents)

The MacCauley-Rose is named for two friends who gave me nuthin' but grief when I claimed Whippoorwill had a two-pitch route hiding in plain sight. I water soloed the second pitch in summer 2010 and rapped in to drill the anchor, but I didn't want to call it legitimate until I led it on gear. The exposure, length and adventure feel are all present and accounted for, and the M-R opens the door to several fine-looking lines through the long roof instead of traversing under it.

This climb is going to be popular. It had outstanding climbing on good rock, and bolts right where a 5.9 leader needs them. It went up on lead, the two protection bolts being drilled from hooks and the anchor from a terrifying stance above the last bolt.

I think this'll be pretty popular. It's got sustained climbing on good rock. But right now it also has some climbing on dirty rock as you transition into the top of Crescent Corner.

Sure, the opening moves are a bit long, but I'm 5'6" and recovering from back surgery and managed to find a reasonable sequence through it.

It can be a little tricky placing gear in the crux as you're headed up into the bowl, so don't bother. Gear it up below and above and just enjoy the textbook fingerlocks.

The route's been chopped, except for one protection bolt high up and the anchor.
J

Fell at the low crux on my first attempt. Came back a couple weeks later and sent. This is probably not a good first 5.10, although, at least the protection is cheap and easy, so to speak.

A quality link up for those too weak to send any of the standard bikini lines (like, for example, me).

Not sure where RC.com's 10c and PG13 ratings come from. The pitch is a one-move wonder at the low end of 5.10. The gear is bomber and plentiful, and if you blow the crux up high, you fall into nice, soft air. The climbing is so-so on rock that's higher quality than it looks from down low, and the pitch is very short. Still, I think it's a worthwhile route, especially if you want multipitch climbing at the New and have already climbed the amazing first pitch (5.8). The best part is looking down through your stems at nothing but air! I combined the two pitches into one, lowered and cleaned to the anchor atop the first pitch, and then rappelled from there, because I wasn't sure a 60-meter rope would reach from the top.

Though Bubba City has largely become a haven for crowds of people seeking moderate sport routes, the area is still home to several striking and obvious natural lines. Cumberland Blues is certainly one of these. I hopped on without expectation, because I'm still not in top shape. Lo and behold... onsight. I'll take it.