jansuw's Logbook (7 ascents)

My first 'real' trad lead! I climbed it on toprope, and i just wasnt satisfied, so I borrowed my friends set of nuts, three cams and two hexes! I placed the small hex and a medium nut before a ledge in the middle of the route, then the big hex right off the bat. I ran it out cause I could've fallen onto the ledge for a while, and then placed a nut. Before the end layback crux, I placed a #2BD cam in a hidden crack behind a flake and two nuts. Halfway up the layback I placed a third nut and topped out. AWESOME FEELING! WOOHOO!

Tomi had onsighted this one before, so even though it was a 5.9 slab (shudder) I got on the sharp end first. I clipped the first bolt, but fiddled around for a couple of minutes getting the rope running through right, and then clipping another draw on opposed. My calves were completely smashed and i came down. Everyone else tried it, but no one could unlock the sequence and move past the crux to a ledge to clip the next bolt. I tried it a little later and it went from ground up no hanging or falls. Awesome feeling! Once I got to the ledge between the bolts I was shaking and my heart was racing, I just sat there for a while until standing up to clip the second bolt. Really cool climb and a lead i'm pretty proud of.

Well its kind of an onsight since the climb is so easy there is nothing to learn about it! My first trad lead anyway!!! I placed nine nuts in maybe 6 or 7 meters of crack, and only one got stuck so badly that someone else had to remove it.

I climbed up to the start of the crack and found a place I thought I could place a hex or a big nut. I put in a big nut down low and a hex higher up in the crack and clipped them in. as I moved up, the nut popped right out. I placed a small nut and started to place another one a little higher and the hex popped out and slid down to my belayer. I had two nuts in just above me and I climbed to the top. When i clipped the anchors and lowered down, the highest nut popped out. Only the smallest nut on my rack had stuck...

I'd toproped this before but since nothing else was dry that day, I decided to just lead it for the extra kicks. I really like this climb, and it was kind of onsight as this time I climbed the actual line, instead of straying to the left.

I'd toproped this before, but nothing else was dry so I lead it. At the first bolt we realised that I should've tied into the other end of the rope because there was a wierd bump in very close to the end I'd tied into, so I hung on the first bolt to tie into the other end. Then I missed the third bolt before the crux and didnt even realise it! Good thing I didn't kill myself!

My hardest redpoint! It's a cool route with a slabby crux. I think everyone should climb it, if you visit the place. It took me a couple of visits, maybe three, to finally get the whole thing without falling and to lead it.