jclimbs's Logbook (7 ascents)

Great climb. Needs to be dry for a couple days. Shaded area, short approach. Stick-clip the first bolt.

This year, thank God for rock that works even when wet. Went out to the BAW and climbed this route even tho it sprinkled during the ascent.
Rather than climb the standard line, after the crux headwall, I traversed left to join up with Carpenter & Das' finish, a line we call "Full Recovery".

Had phenomenal weather. Started at 3am, back at 3pm. Never needed headlamp. Originally planned ascent of South Pillar Route, but my partner couldn't make the trip, so I opted to climb the tourist route on my own. Used Spider System for the crux, no rope needed elsewhere. Easy but my legs and arms did cramp up a bit during the ascent. Approx. 4000' of vert. gain.

Several clients top-roped this excellent route.

Several clients top-roped this route.

Not sure of the exact date.
I've been able to do this route at least once a year since putting it up way back when. It still is exciting and enjoyable, but without the traffic it got back in the mid-90s it is starting to choss up a bit.

Finally tempted someone into coming out and doing this as a mixed route, after taking pictures, stitching up a huge image of the route, and sending it to Jason.
We went out for a look-see and came back a week later to put it to rest. It was brilliantly warm and the ice was getting very soft as we began climbing. Since the bottom pitch entails an ice tendril that is only a few inches wide at one point, we couldn't dilly-dally. Up we went: the first pitch an excellent MI 3/5.6 160'; the second pitch a phat WI2+/3- of about 100'. It was easily 50 degrees out by the time we began rappelling.