Routes : Reviews
jds100's Logbook (11 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: The Little Big Wall
Cave City
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
one of my first leads, trad gear
One of my first leads, on trad. Eats up trad gear; medium to big, with long slings to avoid rope drag; big solid stances; can feel scary at the grade; later soloed a time or two
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: The Little Big Wall
Unfinished Symphony
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Hang Dog ascent by:
fun, kinda scary
first pitch takes gear great; straight to hanging belay; traverse right; gets 'thought-provoking' and challenging; took some time to work through
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: The Little Big Wall
Dizzy
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
great lead route
slightly bouldery start, set trad gear (cam) for second; followed bolt line of great holds through great exposure up to solid hanging belay. Took gulley for second pitch to finish this great route. Free-hanging rap to the ground.
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
April Fool
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
scary onsight trad fail
I don't remember if I thought this was a different route, or if I was just over-confident, but once I got out of the trad protected gulley, and knew there were no bolts, I down-climbed, pulling my gear as I went. Probably a good thing I didn't 'brave' the onsight, since it was my second trad route, and hadn't been on sport routes, yet...
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
Thomas Bear Memorial
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
lotta fun
followed/ TR'd. Tough from the very beginning; thin, sharp, sustained; outstanding. Cool final move. On lead, this route takes thin and sketchy trad; the one bolt might have been replaced by a new safe one, but none have been added to the route.
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
Dos Equis
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
very good lead route
TR'd a few times on earlier visits; VERY good route at the grade. Good stances for every clip; couple moves felt sketchy; top/ last move was a challenge
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
Ghosts and Goblins
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
kinda tough; can be scary up higher
I think a bolt or two may have been added since I led this route; check the latest edition of the guidebook. Started with ring bolt fairly high, but felt solid. Set trad gear; can be tough to find a rhythm; holds and sequences are not obvious. Glad to get to the top with a nice big clean top of the bluff with chain anchors.
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
School Yard Blues
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
VERY fun, little scary
Tr'd or seconded a few times; then led. Bolt placement seems OK to me, but leader should be solid at the 10 grade; a fall at the bulge leaves you swinging free. Turning the bulge is 'easy' with the right holds; take you time to find 'em. Turning the roof can be brutal or elegant, depending on how you use your feet. I've done it both ways, but only been proud of one.
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
High Flying Bird
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Good mixed route; chance to learn trad pro
Good route for the beginning leader; starts with bolts, needs trad pro off good stance up higher. I always set good trad gear in the crack up high; good thing, since I blew the move and fell onto it on my third time on the route.
Added: 2012-07-14
Routes: North America: United States: Illinois: South: Cedar Bluff: Playground Wall
Detention
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
fun, good first 10a
TR'd a few times over a few visits to Cedar; led with one trad piece for first pro, followed by a few bolts. Enough over-hanging to get a little pumpy for new leader at 10a. Led several times; a couple slight variations (stay left on the bulge).
Added: 2012-07-14
