johnnyb336's Logbook (155 ascents)

Back again. Traversed all the way over to the tree ledge.

I can't stand to climb a route incorrectly so I decided I needed to give this one another go as I have definitely botched it many times with all the different ways I have climbed it. There is no doubt the first bolt is where it needs to be as that is where the first ascentionist intended it to be. After looking at it closely, the most logical line is slightly right of the bolt and straight up to the small ramp/ledge located under the bolt. It is a little stiff for Stone standards but not unreasonable for a 5.8. It was also better to climb up above the right side of the bolt to the dikes rather than moving over to the left. The entire left side was heavily caked in fine lichens and made all of the holds very slick. I followed the dikes right up through the overlap and headed straight to the second bolt. Then, I just followed what was basically a water groove up to the anchors. Again, it really wasn't that runout above the second bolt. It looks that way in the Select Climbs topo, but it is inaccurate. It is that same topo that caused me to climb the left side of the bolts in the first place. I felt fine only using the two draws as pro.

Been a little while and it was such a nice day. Took the line above the arete and hit the slab as quickly as possible. Didn't bother much with pro, used two .75 C4s for the entire stretch. More could be used if you feel the need. Always a good little warmup.

I have tried and tried to update the route information above but nothing ever happens. I moved the route slightly left due to bolt placements and a bit better line. There are five bolts and a set of belay rings just left of the chimney. The climbing further right is easier and can still be done when toproping from the upper anchors. It may be difficult for shorter climbers to follow the bolt line. Taller climbers will find it quite easy.

I know that I have been on this route a few too many times but it is just a great route for newbies. I brought along a friend's 11 year old son that was dying to climb to the top and I wanted something a little better than the Arch or No Alternative. We changed it up a bit and climbed the last three pitches of Autumn Speaks instead of the usual finish. I lead each pitch, the kid followed me, and my regular climbing partner followed last. While it was just routine for us, it was the greatest thing ever for the kid. For me, that is what climbing is all about.

I am not very keen on top-roping at Stone as it completely removes the the entire mental aspect of slab climbing. However, I have mellowed a little after witnessing a death here last year (not a climber) and falling on this same route exactly one week later.

I had previously lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the headwall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I finally made it to the first piece of pro, a shared bolt with Grand Funk and good 75' off the deck. I was quite nervous by then but continued on anyway. I broke away from Grand Funk and headed up to the belay rings below the headwall. I made it to the first bolt, which still had the red webbing from my last visit. I made it about 10' or 15' past the bolt and slipped. My belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. The two traumatic experiences exactly a week apart took a toll on my climbing for the past year.

Now, just over a year later I decided I wanted to toprope the crux section in the headwall. It was not easy either as there is not much gear up above the headwall. There is a lot of debris and vegetation on this route due to it being an area of tremendous run-off after rain. That probably had a lot to do with its difficulty but I can tell you now that this was more difficult than any other 5.10s I have climbed at Stone and I have climbed quite a few. None of the guidebooks show the climbing in the headwall as being particularly difficult but I beg to differ. I would want to clean it before I lead it. Be very cautious with the first pitch too as it is extremely runout. This is just not a safe route and there are plenty of other routes to choose from. Yes, that red webbing is still there. Well, what was red, it is now mostly black.

We were looking for a decent moderate climb that we had not already been on a couple dozen times and ended up here. This is a nice climb although it wanders around quite a bit. The first and second pitches are where the excitement is at. This time around, rather than climb the dull third pitch, I made a long traverse over to PF Flyers. After playing around there for awhile, I traversed over to Grand Funk and rapped down from there.

I just wanted to introduce a friend's son to climbing at Stone and we climbed this first. I chose the unnamed line to the left of U-Slot and climbed straight up through the v- notch in the overlap. He climbed without any difficulty other than being a little short for the move up through the notch. Nice to be back at Stone.

Nothing to really say. I brought along a friend's son for his first time at Stone and started him on the easy stuff. Even in approach shoes, this is a very easy climb. Nice to be back though.

I had just fallen on Left Up so I climbed with a little more caution than I normally would. The pro was decent and the climbing fairly easy. I just took the path that looked like it had the most wear and chalk residue. It was a decent end to the day. We used the rap rings above Left Up to get to the ground.