kingbiscuit's Logbook (13 ascents)

There is pinch you have to use to get past the crux around the 5th bolt I believe. The crux is difficult because there are these jugs to the left that you really want to use. That way is most likely off route and will defintely lead to a nice pendulum if you fall. I burned myself out trying to use the jugs, but you have to pull up on a right hand crimp and go for the pinch with the left.

Very well bolted if you are trying for harder leads.

First 2 bolts is the hardest part, after that it is 5.6-5.7. Topping out is also a little bit of a head game if you do not have a long reach. Fun climb, but only jump on if it is very crowded at Holcomb. Many better climbs to be had on the Claimjumper wall if it is open.

This is one of the few moderate sport climbs in VOTM that I am aware of. It is about 60 ft roughly with solid bolt anchors not shuts.

It is worth trying if you have already climibed most of the sport routes on the patina wall. The crack is awkward and super chossy. Have belay wear a helmet it is not well climbed. There are some technical bits that require stemming if you are on lead. Also there are lots of horns to sling if you want to practice that technique. 3-4 really solid horns.

Definitely give it a try if you have climbed most everythinng else in the area, but give the classics a try first.

We went down the south face and luckily came across a rap station over an odd bolted route. Make sure you go to the top and descend down the moderate east side. The south face is really hairy and was a stupid descent.

Climb is good for a quick jaunt. Good warmup

I really enjoyed the route big jugs are nice but it is pretty run-out on the first/2nd pitch in my opinion. I lead P-2 and I had alot of difficulty finding gear placements because the crack is so wide and flaring I managed to find enough and thankfully didn't fall. I was happy to find two fixed pitons placed right before the step around. That made it feel much more secure and I was actually pretty comfortable. Make sure to avoid the immediate top-out and place a small cam (TCU 0 or 1) in a small pocket to prevent the follower from penduluming. Unlesss you don't like your climbing partner.

The vertical crack at the P-2 belay spot is kind of flaring. Make sure to have a #3 camalot. I was pretty happy at that point we had combined to have double cams.

First big move is this wingspan stretch to just barely get your balance and move on to the main line of the climb. Nice overhanging section gets a little pumpy. Well protected, but you should bring a stick clip if you don't want to fall in the 30 foot cavern. Or just have your belayer clip into the anchor facing the climb.

1st half is pretty straight forward. 2nd half is just a big network of webbing cracks that could be climbed a million different ways. Stay left of the last bolt to stay on route. Probably closer to a 10a or 9+. Not sure I have been climbing at Joshua tree, so my ratings are all off.

I am still under 10 trad climbs notched. It was a good climb I took quite a few rests. Spent alot of time checking placements and being sure of the moves. About half/half passive/active protection. With the exception of the last third it wasn't much of a crack climb more of a feature climb. Jtree West guidebook rates it a 5.8 which is probably right on. Nice horizontal crack at top on ground for anchor piece placements.

2 pretty straight forward pitches. First pitch is half and half trad/sport the second is mostly sport except one or two placements if you want to be super safe. First pitch is definitely much more interesting with the only perfect chimney I have ever seen outside a gym.

Great first multipitch just for getting the mechanics of multipitch climbing down.

Bastards sandbagged this one 2-3 grades. Welcome to Jtree. Bottom is hardest to protect. Place a #3 and then sling the horn with a long runner. Rest is pretty reasonable to protect, but probably not a good 1st lead. Just followed this one.