plaidman42's Logbook (18 ascents)

Super fun easier first pitch, crack for the second, easy walkoff

The crux is a solid 10d campus over the roof, super fun. Ran into a guy from ASCA after sending and learned he had rebolted the route two days prior with bomber glue ins, which is awesome because I climbed it a year prior and nearly every bolt was a spinner, he says a 50-75 year life expectancy for these new guys!

The route didn't quite feel 11b, with beta it could go way lower but onsighting had its challenges, there's a jug ready to pull on the last bolt before the anchors.

First pitch was easy, run it out; second pitch was mediocre quality; third pitch was a blast; fourth pitch was money, crack was easy to sew up, get your balls and hit the arrete solo; fifth pitch is fun, stay right, manky anchor; sixth pitch is long, real long, slung a chickenhead for an anchor; seventh is the crack, don't lieback it, it'll kill you; to rappel start third classing up following good cairns and find the "airy traverse" not as bad as it looks but committing, find the bolted anchors by the big pine tree, 1st rap one full 70, then a double seventy with 50 feet of downclimbing, then another fullll double seventy to the main ledge where there is a walkoff to the right towards the start of the route.

I hadn't really looked into the crag other than directions and hopped on this as a warm up and found myself in an awesome though provoking route, probably best work on my route reading...

beautiful

Nice belay ledges, super easy first pitch

use slings to avoid rope drag

fun

Interesting, crux felt more towards the anchors than before