ptengert's Logbook (26 ascents)

One of the more interesting lines at the Gap. Gear is definitely PG, was helpful to use ball nutz.

I placed 4 ball nutz on this climb into parallel thin seams, 2 of which would have been otherwise unprotectable. P1 is delightful. First belay stance is adequate, but out of view/earshot of the double-overhang crux at the top. You may want to belay above the last left-facing corner on the face before the hangs to ease communications. I attempted the direct line at the crux, and greased out, going for a clean 10-15' fall w/rope stretch. I then went up and traversed right around the first crux hang, and topped out via the 5.7 variation.

Note you can avoid the "scary corner" (as the guide refers to it, by going right from the 1st belay, traversing around the arete to the face on the right, then up. The "scary corner" is poorly protected, and if you blew it, you'd fall right on your belayer. This is a much safer option.

Corkscrew is an apt name for this climb, as it winds around numerous corners and hangs. Climb ends right at a frequently used rap station with great views as you're standing at the lip of the Great Arch!

Booty alert, we left a YELLOW MASTER CAM in the crux overhang. I loaded it upon falling, and my second couldn't get it out. It's waiting for you....

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loved it

fun!

I put this up there with HighE and MadameG's as one of the best 5.6 climbs in the Gunks. P1 is easy, but interestesting. P2 is wonderful, and keeps on giving. Good holds throughout, a small runout on the P2 traverse. Uses several larger cams on P1

Did this the second time today, 26 years after the first time. Every bit as fun. A bit easier than I remember.

Went from GT ledge DIRECT to top.
Leader opted out of the overhangs exiting left,
and instead finished the class exit out right.

Screwed up initial low traverse & fell

Hand work at traverse. Messed it up the first time and fell. Got it the 2nd time.

2nd pitch sustained at overhangs