Routes : Reviews
rhei's Logbook (36 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 01. Picnic Lunch Wall Area: Picnic Lunch Wall
Teddy Bear's Picnic
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
P2 Definitely Worth It
P1 mega-wacos at the start are straightforward. Upper part of the pitch involves multiple pebble-pinching moves. Well protected.
P2 is the money pitch. A sequence of thin moves on traverse ends with a couple of high steps and an interesting final balancey move at the top of an arete. Fantastic position throughout.
P2 is the money pitch. A sequence of thin moves on traverse ends with a couple of high steps and an interesting final balancey move at the top of an arete. Fantastic position throughout.
Added: 2013-11-12
Routes: North America: United States: Idaho: Lost River Range: Mt. Borah
E Face - NE Ridge Mount Borah
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Long day - very rewarding
Moderate rock climbing with sparse protection. Quality of this route depends strongly on snow conditions, esp. above Super S. Potential for dangerous cornice where traverse leads to NE Ridge.
Added: 2012-08-28
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 07. Smith Rock Group: Northeast Face
Sky Chimney **
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Linking works out fine
When linking p. 2 and 3 I used double Camalots 0.5 to #2. A second #3 would have been helpful, but c'est la vie. I did find multiple large stopper placements. Recommend bringing a dozen or more slings and draws. Save enough gear to build your anchor at the top.
Overall, a decent trad route. Never that hard but steep enough to require thoughtful balance and position. Watch out for abundant scree at the top.
Overall, a decent trad route. Never that hard but steep enough to require thoughtful balance and position. Watch out for abundant scree at the top.
Added: 2012-06-29
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Mt. Willard: Right of Cinema Gulley
Across the Universe
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Worthwhile just for p.4
But the rest of the climb has its moments, too. Newer, more direct start (contrast Chauvin's online route description) gives additional good climbing. P.2 crux seems to go more easily for taller climbers (informal survey), otherwise requires substantial crimp strength. Milky Way pitch is fantastic. It's well protected by bolts. They may seem a little far apart but there are no ledges, no hazards. G rating.
Added: 2011-10-17
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Lost T Cliff
Little Kisses
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Plain Ol' Fun
Worth seeking out.
Added: 2011-09-14
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Cathedral Ledge: The Upper Left Wall
Nutcracker
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
A good finish to the day
Enjoyable fingers and toes crack climbing in great rock
Added: 2011-06-13
Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Cathedral Ledge: The Prow
Recompense Beast Flake
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
2nd time
So good I had to go back a second time so I'd get to lead all the pitches
Added: 2011-06-13
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Criss Cross Direct
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Jam start
Solid hand jams were a better alternative to laybacking the start.
Added: 2010-10-11
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Keene Valley: Spider's Web
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Terrific Crack
Dicey start leads to superlative climbing.
Added: 2010-09-07
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Keene Valley: Washbowl Cliff
Till the Fat Lady Sings
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Steep Crack and Face
Sustained throughout the middle 75 feet. Bolt protection where the rock is friable.
Added: 2010-09-06
