rocloco's Logbook (52 ascents)

Top roped this one -- not sure I'd ever be down to lead. Long falls on slab scary!

Nothing to say about the route that hasn't been said.

I led the 2nd pitch back in '06 on a road trip and came back last weekend to lead all 3. I have been climbing very little the last 6 years, no trad whatsoever, so this was a safe & easy but still exhilarating lead for my first time out in ages...it didn't disappoint.

I led this back in '06 on a road trip and again twice last weekend. It's exactly as advertised. If you want to have a little fun leave your 5"+ gear at home and you'll have a nice 30ft. run out to the ledge on easy climbing.

If you want to feel safe and fuzzy bring 2 or 3 pieces of at least 5" for the top section and you'll be okay. I'm 6'2" and I've got pretty long arms and it's pretty much full extension to get in far enough for a good placement with 5" gear so if you're small bring bigger gear so you don't have to go so far into the crack. The green Big Bros places well in several spots and the blue Big Bros would place in several spots also.

I gave this a G rating since you can easily protect with the right size gear if you want. Just because many climbers choose to do it without (me included) doesn't mean the route is inherently deserving of an R. It's certainly possible to seam it up from bottom to top.

Came really close to falling, but got it clean after a couple desperate lunges at the crux. My feet popped once and then I just barely had gas to pull up onto the jugs under the roof. I hope the 3rd times the charm and it feels easy.

Fun route. Nice and light, safe 8.

hk

dsds

dfd

This route should have been graded at 5.8. I screwed up when I added the route - sorry about that. Tried to edit, but it's not showing the changes. And of course it's a sporto route not trad. So just an fyi...

Fun climb with some short run outs. I got ten feet from the bolt at the top and heard a LOUD crashing of gear off to my left - several distinct crashes each further down than the last. Lowered off the top bolt so my buddy and I could go help, but there was nothing we could do. Fell from high up Bella Vista. Really shlty.