tahoe523's Logbook (8 ascents)

onsighting this approach would be more impressive than onsighting the climb. plenty of route beta, so I'll just stick to providing beta for the approach.

although i know better, I should have studied the supertopo over all the chatter I digested at Camp 4. When you're on the John Muir Trail don't veer left too early after you pass the bathrooms by Nevada Falls. Somehow I jumped left too soon, saw some carines and got excited. 2 hours later thinking that I was walking along half dome, I found out I was really on the alternative trail between Liberty Cap and Mt. Broderick and bottomed out back on the Mist Trail. I know. High-five, me.

Sounds idiotic, but if you're going *down* a gully, you're doing the alternative approach backwards. I was getting excited about carines in the wrong direction. Again, 20/20 hindsight.

The left off of John Muir isn't as obvious as people claim. It's less than a quarter mile or so after the junction by the Little Yosemite trail sign. Once you spot a heavily worn climber's trail, then yes, you are on the right path. There is no immediate cairn by the left, but there are Cairns past the left, which yes can take you back to the climber's trail, but it's hard to navigate after the sandy boulder-y area the book describes. Head back and you'll find the correct trail from the get-go. Aside from the killer detour, the climb was spectacular. Still finished in day light with a little headlamp action at the end of the hike down.

Cairns - an absolute blessing and can be a curse in disguise. It's easy to convince yourself you're going in the right direction. Be critical of your own assumptions.

there's no longer a bolt off the 2nd pitch, you are immediately into the crux, but you can protect the left side before shuffling to the right into some fingerlocks and side pulls. finished in exactly 4 hours. approach, at a brisk pace, is about 45 minutes. decent still took 2 full hours. static ropes are all decent, but we put my rope as backup on the last rappel.

embarrassing, but resorted to slithering my entire body on the left side of the crack on the 2nd pitch since I couldn't reach the finger hold above. start of the third pitch I had to face climb on the left before reaching the orange hold. lead went right (the correct way) and utilized the right foot hold and had the height to reach the "orange" knobby hold. stout climb, but had some decent crack.

followed comfortably in spite of knowing that I'm not a 10.d climber. crux is do-able without pulling on gear (to emphasis again, as a <10.d climber). great crack, helpful knobs, some cool liebacking toward the top. overall fun route.

Long approaches make for quiet climbs. Topping out provides some of the best views in the valley. 2nd pitch, tough traverse cleaning. Some people avoid the "rotten chimney", I suggest you give it a try. Fun and memorable.

If you move at a steady pace, the approach isn't as bad as it sounds. You can get to the top in about an hour an a half. The decent to the start of the climb did take some time, almost an hour with lots of loose rock to maneuver through. Route highly recommended if you dig alpining and lots of exposure. You won't forget this climb.

With all the dykes along the way, it was hard to imagine it being a 5.10b. Boy, I was wrong. Can't imagine leading this in my wildest dreams; to follow this route was tough enough. However, beautiful sustained climbing. The move before the traverse to the right (if you choose to go that way) was tricky, but the finishing crack was fantastic.

This rap route gets traffic. Careful dropping rope onto the 1st belay station. Otherwise, great line!